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Coonyard Pinnacle T 
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Variation on a Theme T,TR 

Coonyard Pinnacle 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Bill Amborn, Joe McKeown and Rich Calderwood 9/60 FFA Chuck Ostin and Frank Sacherer 1961
Page Views: 1,298
Submitted By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Nov 25, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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  • Description 

    This is the route that started it all on GPA. It is named for Yvon Chouinard though he was not associated with the climb.

    Pitch 1(5.9) - reach up and grab a pocket and mantle up. This is the technical crux. Climb up to a small ledge and belay.

    Pitch 2(5.8) - climb up the right side of the ledge then up past a bolt to a small pinnacle with a bolt and belay.

    Pitch 3(5.9) - traverse left to a two-bolt anchor.

    Pitch 4(5.9) - this pitch used to be one of the scariest pitches on the apron featuring 40' of unprotected 5.8/5.9 climbing, but a bolt has been added over the years which has tamed it a bit.

    Pitch 5(5.6) - climb up a short, right facing dihedral to the top of the pinnacle.


    Start this route from the top of Monday Morning Slab.
    Three double rope rappels will get you back to the top of MMS.


    Bring a set of stoppers and cams up to 2" to supplement the bolts.

    Comments on Coonyard Pinnacle Add Comment
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    By Ryan K.
    May 3, 2015

    Pitch One: Up to the bolt, then angle right and up toward corner to get gear in. Easier moves in corner lead to second bolt and traverse to left. Belay using tree and bolt to left of tree. 5.9

    Pitch Two: Start right of tree. Climb up to corner/bulge feature, pop some pieces in (including a 3 camalot), and then commit to the slab. Head up over the bulge, aiming for the left facing corner. I never found the bolt shown on the topo, but there's a small finger sized piece you can get in twenty feet above the bulge before entering the corner. Fun liebacking in corner, then head right past optional bolt to belay. 5.8 PG 13

    Pitch Three: Topo shows two options. We took the lower route, which is better protected. Traverse left past two bolts and some small gear, then up to ledge visible from pitch two belay. Slick rock past second bolt. 5.9 PG 13

    Pitch Four: Twenty-five feet of unprotected 5.8 slab gets you to the single bolt on the pitch. Continue up aiming for a bowl feature, get some pro in, then up to belay. 5.8 R

    Pitch Five: Easy slab to a right facing corner to the top of Coonyard. 5.7

    Belay locations are all stellar. Most bolts at anchors leave something to be desired. Single rack offset cams(all sizes) and single rack regular cams, small to 3 camalot. Possible to link 1&2 and 4&5 with diligent runner use and/or backcleaning.
    By Vlad S
    Apr 18, 2016

    Both the original description and Ryan's description sound a bit off to me. First, it makes no sense to belay after pitch 1. It's only 40 feet and the anchor is shit (single old bolt hiding behind the bush). Rather link 1+2 (160 feet together) going right from the ledge at the top of 1. Not sure where the #3 camalot would go, I only got in a yellow alien, then an upwards-driven pin where the topo shows a bolt. Gear belay at the base of the splitter corner next to the fixed stopper, again no bolt. The 3rd pitch doesn't continue up the corner as Ryan wrote, but rather traverses directly left for 40 feet. There are no bolts OR gear on this pitch, just as Reid guide shows. So, to make it somewhat protectable we downclibed ALL the way to the obvious ledge, over and then straight up to the belay. This way minimizes the swing for both climbers.

    End of pitch 3 is the first solid bolted anchor, so you'd have to leave gear if you want to bail earlier. I don't know how pitch 4 was "tamed" by addition of the bolts. It still features a 5.8 X section at the start with 40 feet of blankness to the first and only bolt on the pitch.
    By Ryan K.
    May 10, 2016

    Yea Vlad! Glad to see others getting on this route. The #3 is the piece you get if you head straight up from the P1 anchor. Sounds like you went right. The Reid guide shows P2 belay on a little pedestal at the top of the left facing corner. There are two bolts there of the same quality as the rest of the anchor bolts on the route (not great).

    Someone added two bolts to the P3 traverse, and there are a few options for small pro on the pitch too.
    By Vlad S
    May 10, 2016

    Yeah, I went right at the top of pitch 1. Also set up the belay at the bottom of the corner (top of p 2), not at the top. It perfectly matched the topo and so did pitch 3. I didn't even see anything at the top of that corner or higher up where you would traverse left. Definitely sounds like we took different routes on top of 2 and pitch 3.

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