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Cooney - Russell 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bayard
Page Views: 1,036
Submitted By: bayard russell jr on Jul 5, 2011

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A link up of pitches we jokingly referred to as the Cooney-Russell, mostly because of its insignificance, but the name stuck. Regardless, the climbing is fun and consistantly 5.9. We did this back in '05 or so.

p.1 Start as for Diedre, but step right off the top of the triple corners to a finger and hand crack (Kinesis). When you start getting hand jambs step right around the blind arete to a stance. Locate a single bolt out right at a stance and continue traversing right past it until you gain the top of the first pitch of Delieghtmaker (shared with the Underground). Follow the weakness up a three foot handcrack and build an anchor at a good ledge below two corners. (Note: from the bolt it is tempting to climb straight up to the belay ledge staying in a corner, this is harder than 5.9, not well protected and not recommended.) 5.9+

p.2 Climb the left of the two corners; a gorgeous little, leaning 5.9 finger crack up to a short off width leading into the gully known as Karen's variation. Follow Karen's Variation to the Blueberry Terrace (the big ledge below Diedre's last pitch).

p.3 Climb the last pitch of Diedre to the woods.


Climb the Triple Corners on Diedre to a large ledge below the roof traverse.

The Diedre area is so close to the North End the easiest way down is to hike right, 5 mins.


Standard Cathedral rack plus a #5 camalot for a short off width on the second pitch.

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