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Cool Hand Dukes  

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Joe Bridges, Dave Craft and Dick Williams, 1988
Page Views: 1,367
Submitted By: Rob Griffiths on Nov 11, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Jeff getting some!!


CHD is noted by Dick Williams as a top pitch to a variety of routes including the notable Ants' Line(5.9) and Sleepwalk, an underrated slab/arete. It climbs from the Ants Line bolted anchor upwards and right through a steep face filled with jugs and other positive holds. The rock quality is outstanding and gear is abundant in all the right places.


Climb the first pitch of Sleepwalk or Ants' Line. From the double-bolt anchor stance, angle up and right pulling on steep holds. The route goes up the obvious face/fault that is basically above Ants' Line.


A standard rack should get you through, but double the smaller pieces (BD.3-1) if linking this with Sleepwalk (5.7). A fair number of 60cm runners eliminated rope drag with the Sleepwalk/CHD link up.

Photos of Cool Hand Dukes Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading up Cool Hand Dukes
BETA PHOTO: Leading up Cool Hand Dukes

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By Tim Schafstall
Apr 24, 2008

Recent Williams' Guides recommend finishing Sleepwalk with this second pitch (Cool Hand Dukes, 5.8). I've looked at this 2 times now and the start up through the "vertical fault" contains some very questionable rock IHMO.
By SethG
Apr 12, 2011

If you look at the picture in the book you'll see how Cool Hand Dukes ends at the same place as Bonnie's, and the rings/slings to the right are the Bonnie's rings/slings. The right edge of the buttress climbed by Cool Hand Dukes is the Bonnie's 5.7 arete. You need two ropes to use the Bonnie's station -- it is all air to the ground, well over 100 feet.
By Benjaminadk
From: San Pedro, California
Apr 4, 2013

I thought the rock was good on cool hand dukes. Gotta say it's a pumpy climb with some small crux gear and hard for 8 even by Gunks standards. In fact, I thought it was a grade harder and much pumpier than double crack, which I climbed directly after. I think I have a legit case for calling this a sandbag, something I don't usually do. Whatever, though, its a fun time and a good second pitch to sleepwalk or ants. Ursula rap is convenient if you only have one rope (climber's right from top of cool hand).
By losbill
Apr 5, 2013

I'm confused. It has been a number of years since I have attempted to do Cool Hand Dukes but as I recall my attempt brought me pretty far to the right of the big pine tree marking the end of the original P2. I ended up above Bonnie's P2 finish on white stacked blocks. I recall thinking the rock was scary and the pro was lousy, particularly as I attempted to continue up and right. Bailed left pretty much horizontally about 12 to 17 feet to the big pine tree.

Seth what book are you referring to? The Gray Dick seems to show CHL finishing significantly above the finish to P2 of Bonnie's.
By Benjaminadk
From: San Pedro, California
Apr 5, 2013

CHD doesnt appear to be drawn into my copy of grey dick. there is a letter F (pg443) directly over the vertical fracture of CHD. i think seth and i have differnt definitions of "jug haul" i dont remember being super excited about the gear.
By SethG
Apr 6, 2013

As Ben notes, the Cool Hand Dukes fracture does go right through the letter "F" on the picture. (The "F" is there for The Throne, the climb just to the right).

The "B" line in the book (on p. 442) is not Cool Hand Dukes. It is the traditional continuation of Sleepwalk, which Dick now describes as a variation. There is no line drawn for Cool Hand Dukes, but if you look at the photo you can see a very faint line that is the fracture followed by the pitch. And the pitch takes you to the Bonnie's tree, as I mentioned, but of course you could keep going higher, as maybe losbill did lo those many years ago.

I followed Dana up this pitch again last year and I stand by my earlier remarks in every respect! A juggy good time and the pro is fine! It is steep. Keep moving.
By losbill
Apr 6, 2013

Thanks for the reply Seth. I will certainly defer to Dana given his history with and knowledge of all things Gunks. But if CHD ends where Bonnie's ends how does Dick give CHD 90' and the Original route only 60'? I'm coming to the conclusion Dick's description and photo are just a bit confusing.

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