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Cooks Wall

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Cookbook, The 
Lower Wall 
West Walls  
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Cooks Wall Rock Climbing 


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Location: 36.4001, -80.2602 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 17,718
Administrators: Ryan Williams, ShockSLL, Aaron Parlier, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: nbrown on Sep 29, 2010
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Description 

Since there have been a few people looking for info on this place, I dug out the old info and am posting it here. I don't really have the time to write it all up in a formal fashion (if someone else wants to do this, send me an email and I'll edit this post), so use the numbered info in each area in conjunction with the "picture" entitled Topo, and that should be get you where you're going.

This cliff is a good alternative to pilot mountain for winter time cragging. The rock is generally better and the crowds are essentially non-existent. It is a large broken up cliff line on the south end of hanging rock state park that requires a long hike in for a relatively small amount of climbing. The left side (west) of the mountain is generally referred to as Cooks Fin and is subdivided into areas. The right sided (east) of the mountain is large and broken but sports some worthwhile routes, namely "Emla", a 5.13 put up by Howie F back in the 90's . Of special note: the cliff can be quite windy and as a result may be unbearably cold in the winter, or reasonably pleasant in warmer weather. Pay attention to predicted wind conditions.

Getting There 

Drive to hanging rock state park and hike the cooks wall trail. The trail eventually peters out, and there are a couple of access gullies found here on the left, though they are likely to be overgrown. The first large and obvious gully/cleft will lead you down just west of the "Cookbook" area. There are some nice sheer walls on the left side, with some old unknown routes here. The best way to approach the "Cooks Fin" is to continue down the ridge a short ways and locate the gully on the left. It will bring you out by the "Breakfast Wall".

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 2.6 miles from here

46 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',4],['5.10',9],['5.11',14],['5.12',10],['5.13',6],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Cooks Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Cooks Wall:
Grace Under Pressure   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 80'   The Cookbook : Emla area
Great taste of tang   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   West Walls : 'Tang area
Edge of Enlightenment   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 100'   The Cookbook : The Prow
DC Crack   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   West Walls : DC Cave
Deceivious   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Cookbook : Emla area
Spiritual Warfare   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   The Cookbook : Warfare area (Upper Cook...
Theater Of Pain   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   The Cookbook : Emla area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Cooks Wall

Featured Route For Cooks Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Dennis Buice basking on his magnificent Grand Illu...

Grand Illusion 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c  NC : Cooks Wall : ... : The Prow
Grand Illusion; what a great route. These are some of the biggest holds that you will ever get scared on.This climb takes you straight up the belly of the prow into illusions of grandeur.From the belay platform, climb the right bolt line through the roof. Trend right across the lip of the roof at the second bolt to pull over. Climb the face through cryptic sequences to the base of the overhang. Clip the first bolt on the prow 24" and take the left line through large...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of Cooks Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: For a much easier approach than sliding down the g...
BETA PHOTO: For a much easier approach than sliding down the g...
Rock Climbing Photo: An old pic of mine that I copied from another webs...
BETA PHOTO: An old pic of mine that I copied from another webs...

Comments on Cooks Wall Add Comment
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By D B
From: Denver
Mar 28, 2014
Seth, thanks a bunch for putting up all of this info. Heading up there this Sunday to check it out, psyched!