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Cooks Wall

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Cookbook, The 
Lower Wall 
West Walls  
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From MP's sister site:

Cooks Wall Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 36.4001, -80.2602 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 28,461
Administrators: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: S Tart on Sep 29, 2010
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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BETA PHOTO: An old pic of mine that I copied from another webs...

Getting There 

Drive into Hanging Rock State Park and park in the back at the lake parking lot. Walk towards the lake and follow the Cooks Wall Trail (white diamond trail) to House Rock. From there follow the directions as listed on each 'area' page.


My friend, Nathan Brown, originally posted the Cooks Wall main page on MP, as he was one of the main developers for the area. Climbers asked him for info so he created the basic layout and has since turned the page over to me.
Here's part of his original post:

'This cliff is a good alternative to Pilot Mountain for wintertime cragging. The rock is generally better and the crowds are essentially non-existent. It is a large broken up cliff line on the south end of Hanging Rock State Park that requires a long hike in but for a good amount of climbing. The left side (west) of the mountain is generally referred to as The West Walls (aka Cooks Fin) and is subdivided into areas. The right side (east) of the mountain is large and broken but sports some very worthy routes like "Emla", a 5.13d put up by Howie F back in the 90's. Of special note: the cliff can be quite windy and as a result may be unbearably cold in the winter or reasonably pleasant in warmer weather. Pay attention to predicted wind conditions.'

This is a fun winter cliff that's broken into 3 primary sections:

1. Cookbook
2. Lower Wall
3. West Walls (aka Cooks Fin)

The best concentration of hard stuff is on the east side (Cookbook) but the most popular fun area is the West Walls, while the Lower Wall requires the longest hike in and the most strenuous hike out but for some quality routes.

Cooks is not Moores although they are sister cliffs. They are not really even similar. The holds, the texture, even the shape of the cliff and formation of the individual walls are distinctly different from Cooks to Moores. They are each unique and have their own style and character. And although Cooks is more like Pilot and Sauratown, Cooks has not had the 15-20 years worth of steady traffic to clean up the routes, so always keep this in mind. A roughly 1 hour hike in has kept many at bay over the years and is largely to blame. But even to this day in 2017, Cooks has never been published or well documented so traffic has been minimal although the routes are pleasant and fun. But who can blame anyone: with Moores being world class, Pilot's access and Sauratown being the ultimate outdoor climbing gym, Cooks has not had its day. It is a very worthy endeavor though if you want an alternative to the norm and don't mind the hike. The routes are generally 60'-100', the angle is usually steep to really steep and the rock is predominantly good to great. Cooks is known though for it's typically small loose rock in certain spots so use caution and consider a helmet for the belayer in some areas or use one in general for safety. Bring a rack if you don't want to be limited as many routes are mixed or predominantly gear but you can still climb a good bit with just quicks. And as Nathan stated above, Cooks can get somewhat windy so prepare accordingly.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 2.6 miles from here

58 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in Cooks Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Cooks Wall:
Grace Under Pressure   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 80'   The Cookbook : Emla area
Great taste of tang   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   West Walls : 'Tang area
Edge of Enlightenment   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 100'   The Cookbook : The Prow
DC Crack   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   West Walls : DC Cave
Deceivious   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Cookbook : Emla area
Spiritual Warfare   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   The Cookbook : Warfare area (Upper Cook...
Theater Of Pain   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   The Cookbook : Emla area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Cooks Wall

Featured Route For Cooks Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Seth Tart eyeballing the 2nd crux Theatre of Pain ...

Theater Of Pain 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c  North Carolina : Cooks Wall : ... : Emla area
This is an amazing stretch of North Carolina overhang with multiple cruxes and sustained climbing. The line starts pretty much in the center of the wall. Start on jugs that lead to a technical buldge at the second bolt. The climbing is not harder than 5.10 between the second and third bolt, however it would not be wise to fall between them. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in North Carolina

Comments on Cooks Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By D B
From: Denver
Mar 28, 2014
Seth, thanks a bunch for putting up all of this info. Heading up there this Sunday to check it out, psyched!

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