Since there have been a few people looking for info on this place, I dug out the old info and am posting it here. I don't really have the time to write it all up in a formal fashion (if someone else wants to do this, send me an email and I'll edit this post), so use the numbered info in each area in conjunction with the "picture" entitled Topo, and that should be get you where you're going.
This cliff is a good alternative to pilot mountain for winter time cragging. The rock is generally better and the crowds are essentially non-existent. It is a large broken up cliff line on the south end of hanging rock state park that requires a long hike in for a relatively small amount of climbing. The left side (west) of the mountain is generally referred to as Cooks Fin and is subdivided into areas. The right sided (east) of the mountain is large and broken but sports some worthwhile routes, namely "Emla", a 5.13 put up by Howie F back in the 90's . Of special note: the cliff can be quite windy and as a result may be unbearably cold in the winter, or reasonably pleasant in warmer weather. Pay attention to predicted wind conditions.
Drive to hanging rock state park and hike the cooks wall trail. The trail eventually peters out, and there are a couple of access gullies found here on the left, though they are likely to be overgrown. The first large and obvious gully/cleft will lead you down just west of the "Cookbook" area. There are some nice sheer walls on the left side, with some old unknown routes here. The best way to approach the "Cooks Fin" is to continue down the ridge a short ways and locate the gully on the left. It will bring you out by the "Breakfast Wall".
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 2.6 miles from here
46 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Cooks Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Cooks Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Cooks Wall:
Featured Route For Cooks Wall
Edge of Enlightenment 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c NC
: Cooks Wall
: ... : The Prow
You might find Enlightenment at the top of this climb, as the crux takes you out onto the edge of the prow and into some awesome exposure.This route is really amazing. The quality, the angle and the positioning make this line a must do.From the belay platform, climb the right bolt line through the roof. Trend right across the lip of the roof at the second bolt to pull over. Climb the face through cryptic sequences to the base of the prow. Clip the first bolt on the prow 24" and climb the right s...[more] Browse More Classics in NC
BETA PHOTO: For a much easier approach than sliding down the g...
BETA PHOTO: An old pic of mine that I copied from another webs...
By D B
Mar 28, 2014
Seth, thanks a bunch for putting up all of this info. Heading up there this Sunday to check it out, psyched!