REI Community
10 - The Cookie Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aftershock T,TR 
America's Cup T 
Anathema T 
Beverly's Tower T 
Butterballs T 
Butterfingers T 
Catchy T 
Catchy Corner T 
Chicken Delight TR 
Cleft, The T 
Cookie Left Side T 
Cookie Monster S 
Cookie-Center, The T 
Cookie-Right, The T 
Crack-a-Go-Go T 
Dynamite Crack 
Elevator Shaft, The T 
Enema, The T 
Enigma, The T 
Hardd T 
Jardine's Hand T 
Meat Grinder T 
Outer Limits T 
Pringles S 
Red Zinger T 
Renegade, The T 
Stigma, The T 
Twilight Zone T 
Twinkie T 
Vendetta T 
Waverly Wafer T 
Wheat Thin T 

Cookie Monster 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bill Price 1979 FFA (1st pitch) Kurt Smith, Scott Cosgrove 1987 (on gear)
Page Views: 12,131
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Jul 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Eric going for the all-gear onsight. So close...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


Once a sketchy 5.12 gear-tinkering pumpfest, now a fully bolted 2 pitch sport route...Like so many older routes (Heinous Cling at Smith Rock comes to mind) that were mixed gear and bolts, the Cookie Monster is now a clip up.

There is a second pitch continuation called "Cookie Cutter" which is a continuous and steep (5.13) pitch of black rock, golden knobs and tiny, sharp crimps looming above the overhanging crescent-like seam of the fun and very chalked first pitch.

Getting to the popular 5.12- "first" pitch anchor is an increasingly difficult finger-lieback and stemming sequence with one BIG move and culminating with a crux section which can be pulled off in about 3 different ways.


SM/MED nuts and thin finger sized cams can be used to supplement the bolts on the "first" pitch...But, if you are strong enough to place anything, then you may as well skip all the bolts while you're at it.

Photos of Cookie Monster Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Doing it on gear is the way to go and it isnt runo...
Doing it on gear is the way to go and it isnt runo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting tubed. Photo by Adam West
Getting tubed. Photo by Adam West
Rock Climbing Photo: Alain De la Tejera on "Cookie Monster". ...
Alain De la Tejera on "Cookie Monster". ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cookie Monster
Cookie Monster
Rock Climbing Photo: Cookie Monster in January
Cookie Monster in January
Rock Climbing Photo: the jug!
the jug!
Rock Climbing Photo: James Barnett on Cookie Monster
James Barnett on Cookie Monster

Comments on Cookie Monster Add Comment
Show which comments
By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Jul 12, 2007

I thought P2 was always bolt protected. Also, isn't "Cookie Monster" the name of the 12a pitch, and "Cookie Cutter" the name of the second, 13b pitch? Anyway, the 2nd pitch is pretty solid for the grade. Very sharp and thin, with some reachy moves near the top.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jul 16, 2007

Basically enduro liebacking with decent edges for feet and a short crux sequence where the crack arches and thins. Can't say that I've seen anyone supplement the bolts with gear other than placing one stopper on the way to the first bolt.
By Hank Caylor
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Feb 11, 2008

Mono, I thought that the 2nd pitch was called Cookie Cutter as well. Lotsa glue but great fun, I also sorta thought Eddie Berry did the 2nd pitch and Kurt the 1st. Anyways, soopergood route but it killed my fingertips.
By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 18, 2008
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I belive that Hank and Mono are correct on the names and the bolting situation, the first pitch was lead all on gear and called 5.12c and was later bolted by or with the permission of the first ascentionist.
By Ben Lepesant
Jan 27, 2009

with all the bolts, I think the 1. pitch is on the really soft side of the grade. If this lieback is 12a, then Moratorium too felt like 12a for me, I guess 11c is more appropriate...
excellent sportclimb though!
By Brad G
From: 1994 Honda Civic
Jun 17, 2009

doing P.1 on gear is way to go. Dose anyone know if P.2 has gone on gear? That stuff is hard and deperate. I'd assume it would be given an X rating.
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Jan 6, 2010

Pitch one is entry level 12a. with or without bolts. Its mostly 5.10 on great holds.

"C" is for Cookie. That's good enough for me! - Cookie Monster.
By Josh Janes
General Admin
Jun 11, 2010

I don't think P2 would deserve the X... a couple great gear placements exist, and even if they didn't, there's a heck of a lot of air below you. I found the moves from the last bolt to the anchor impossible.
By Steven Roth
Mar 12, 2013

Got on the second pitch this past weekend. I had finally worked out the tough boulder problem between the last bolt and the anchors. It is by far the hardest part of the route (adding maybe a +-V7 boulder prob), but a local said the line breaks out right to the crack to the anchors. Anyone know anything about this?
By Robert Lester
Apr 7, 2016

Bolts recently replaced on the first pitch. Much better bolts now. Glue-ins. Also the botch job near the 4th bolt has been cleaned up. Thanks to whoever did this!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About