REI Community
Daff Dome West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bearded Clam T 
Blown Away T 
Bombs over Tokyo (1st pitch) T 
Chvchichaschtli S 
Cooke Book T 
Crescent Arch T 
El Condor T 
Grey Ghost T 
Plagiarism T 
R.C.A. T 
R.C.A. (1st pitch) T 
West Crack T 
West of the Witch S 
Witch of the West S 

Cooke Book 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob Kamps, Tom Higgins July '67
Page Views: 5,515
Submitted By: john durr on Jul 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (67)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Cooke Book.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


A classic 4-5 pitch dihedral with all types of crack climbing but mainly liebacking and finger locks. This is another great route on Daff that gets plenty of summer afternoon sun.

Three starting options exist; the original 5.9 dihedral that passes a fun roof to an awkward and physical slot then sweet jams - a great pitch, what appears to be a runout 5.9 face to easy crack pitch with one bolt or a 5.7 crack with steep face to enter it. The first two options lead to the same fixed anchor and the third option is a gear belay.

From the fixed anchor at the end of the first pitch you should continue the second pitch left past easy jamming with lots of knob footholds until a 5.8 traverse at a big hand hold / pod in the crack allows a crack switch left about 5 feet, this is exciting for the second. Alternatively you can make a 20 foot rappel to the top of the 5.7 crack or down climb to it 5.7. The second pitch ends at huge ledge. The optional 5.7 crack first pitch start avoids the exciting traverse for your partner on the second pitch.

The third pitch jams and laybacks up a wonderful corner to belay at a small stance, easy 5.9 with #3 camelot belay.

Fourth pitch runs up to a large loose flake then underclings the quick 5.10- crux (small stoppers or tiny cams) to more good jamming. Belay at the top of the dihedral to watch your partner or continue to the top with easy safe climbing.


On the far northwest side of the dome, start near a tree on the ledge 20 feet north of West Crack for the original start or 20 feet further north for the 5.7 start. Descent by 1 x 60 meter single rope rappel from chains near the only tree on the northeast side of the dome then walk northwest through the notch.


Plenty of stoppers especially medium through #3 camelot. 3-4 fixed pins on original 5.9 crack pitch and add a few long slings if you do this pitch. No fixed anchors at belays except the original 5.9 crack first pitch.

Photos of Cooke Book Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Just after the Crux..
Just after the Crux..
Rock Climbing Photo: Having fun on the run out 5.7 start.
Having fun on the run out 5.7 start.
Rock Climbing Photo: My good friend having fun on Cooke Book
My good friend having fun on Cooke Book
Rock Climbing Photo: The corner of pitch four has the cleanest rock on ...
The corner of pitch four has the cleanest rock on ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cooke Book - Daff Dome with alternate starts and b...
BETA PHOTO: Cooke Book - Daff Dome with alternate starts and b...

Comments on Cooke Book Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 1, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This was a "sleeper surprise" route for us. Hiked in to climb West Crack and it was loaded with people so we looked around and decided to get on this one. I'm glad we did. Maybe I enjoy laybacking more than the average person but I found this route to be more enjoyable than West Crack. We took the direct 5.7 start, which was fun, and we had a great afternoon outing on this route.
The 5.10a crux took me a couple shots to get it right. I tried laybacking and shoulder jamming which failed but once I did a palms-down finger jam up into the crack and trusted my feet, it all went smooth. Fun stuff!
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 15, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The standard P1 start is burly! Otherwise a fun climb. I won't rush back to do it, but glad I did it.
By Sasquach Broom
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 16, 2010

I went up the crack to the right on pitch 2 which was really fun. (and possibly a bit steeper?) I haven't done it both ways but this way looked like more fun. Also it leads to a decent little ledge to belay on.
By generationfourth
From: Irvine, CA
Jun 7, 2012

This is a fun one. I got spanked on the first pitch 5.8 OW. Groaned and made all kinds of noises up. Misjudged how far we had gone and went through the crux without realizing it was going to be right there. From what I remember I equalized 0 and 00 TCU's at the crux section.
By rpc
Aug 24, 2015

The original (5.9) start feels like the crux. Pretty good route.
By Joe Crawford
From: June Lake, California
Jun 8, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Did this via the face (middle) start, it is definitely not 5.9, way easier i felt it was 5.7. The bit to the first bolt was 5.6 and heady for the grade, but never insecure. The rest of the route felt 5.8ish with one distinct 10a crux. Great route.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About