|Type:||Trad, TR, 1 pitch|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b X [details]|
|FA:||Matt Samet, Steve Levin|
|Submitted By:||Pinklebear on Dec 7, 2001|
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|Comments on Conversions||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By steve dieckhoff
Apr 2, 2004
|Rolo repeated this today in true "Headpoint" style, but w/o crashpads. See attached photos of duct-taped hooks & Birdbeak and try to imagine the horrified excitement I felt as the belayer. Whew.|
By Brady Robinson
Dec 11, 2011
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
|Fun toprope, no interest in leading this thing however.|
By Morgan Patterson
Sep 10, 2013
|There was a time in CT when Ken Nichols thought this form of protection was an acceptable and should be the standard instead of using bolts.... I really don't see the point to this; it's what, a 1% chance of holding if you actually whipped on them?|
Sep 10, 2013
Some history on this lead with no "point": in Eldo, to bolt a new route, you need approval from a fixed hardware review committee, and it's certain this route never would have passed it would have been a "two-bolt piece of shit," as Rolo Garibotti, who did the second ascent, pointed out ... if it even passed. And neither Steve nor I felt like submitting an app for a two-bolt POS.
So, Conversions is perfectly fine as a toprope, or if you want the mental challenge, you can lead it with the hooks. On my first attempt to lead the route, I chickened out at the highstep crux high above the hooks and so started downclimbing. I botched some moves down low, below the hooks, and pitched. The hooks actually held when I was below them, and I was grateful for the crashpad below as well.
Anyway, this isn't really an example of a contrived hook-protected lead eating up prime real estate, but more like, an interesting, easily toproped problem that can also be done as a headpoint for Eldo aficionados. Whether there's a point to this or not is debatable, I'm sure. Steve and I certainly had fun putting it up and playing with the UK Hard Grit-style.