Conventional Warfare
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 3 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, Sport, 75 ft (23 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Bruce Burgess, Sam Stevenson - 1989 FFA: Bruce Burgess - 1991 |
Page Views: | 2,758 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Ben Sachs on Jun 13, 2010 |
Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Description
Very cool overhung dihedral. Both technical and powerful. Small crimps, but fancy footwork keeps you from pulling too hard on them. This route used to be 12d, but holds have broken and I think consensus is 13a now. Rarely done 2nd pitch climbs short dihedral to the right on gear at 11b.
Protection
5 bolts. This route was recently rebolted (not by me) with stainless hardware. No more cruxing over rusty self-drives from the 80's. A bolted anchor was also added for the 1st pitch. A fixed nut (#8 BD) used to protect the finish but is not needed with the new anchor and has been removed. Bring one if you are sketched by the 3 moves of 5.6 that it protects (still not a ground fall).
3 Comments