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Controversial Insert 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Landin, Ayers 1989
Page Views: 54
Submitted By: david goldstein on Nov 30, 2006

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Description 

Featuring a beautiful splitter, this pitch is two stars by itself, but three in conjunction with the approach, the first pitch of Failsafe.

From the anchors atop Failsafe P1, climb straight up an easy crack for about 20', place gear w/ long runners, face traverse left for about 10' (5.8-9, no gear) and gain the bottom of the splitter. The splitter starts as rattly fingers and quickly widens to good hands; which the patina on the wall around the crack is very smooth, the inside of the crack is as rough as a shredder JTree pitch -- tape may be advised. Above the crack there is a steep slot with a tricky finger/fist wudge move. A ledge and crusty sling anchors follow. The slings don't offer much visual comfort so you might want to bring a knife and something to replace them with; the bolts they're attached to seemed fine.

While continuing from the anchor seemed feasible and even desirable, CI ends at this point with a 115' rap back to the anchor at the end of Failsafe P1.

Location 

Do the first pitch of Failsafe.

Protection 

Double set of cams from .5 Camalot to #3 Camalot. 1 #4 Camalot. We had some smaller gear including nuts but I don't think we used them.


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By outdooreric
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 3, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I removed the old webbing and replaced it with chains for the rappel. I would also include two #0.4 camalots or the equivalent to the rack listed above.
By Jonathan Howland
Nov 25, 2007

Said "wudge" move protects nicely with a #3 Camalot. We thought this the crux of the pitch. C.I./Flailsafe is very worthy.

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