You & This Route
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Begin between The Hot Spur
and Waiting Room
P1: Climb the lichen-covered dihedral to a pine tree, 100 feet (5.9 entry to access dihedral, then mostly 5.8).
P2: Climb to the loose ledge, aiming for the hanging dihedral system left of Northumberland Cracks
crux pitch. Climb through bulge and the steep dihedral (5.10b/c R), then climb a slab angling slightly left near top on prominent 5.7 R jugs to a ledge, 110 feet.
P3: Climb obvious thin crack right of the Hot Spurs
final pitch (5.10c, 35 feet).
Standard Eldo rack.
Oct 3, 2012
If this is the dihedral around the corner of p.1 of Hot Spur, I climbed the first pitch in early 2010 (March?) and called it Machete 5.9. The first bit was really bushy. We continued up a big flake to the pine tree. I'll look for exact date. Fun first pitch though!