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Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
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Darkness 'til Dawn T 
Direct Variation to Zot Face T 
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Spur of the Moment T 
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Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn T 
Waiting Room T 
Warm and Fuzzy T 
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Zot Face, The T 

Controlled Burn  

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Bruce Miller, Kent McClannan, 2010
Page Views: 494
Submitted By: Kent McClannan on Jul 19, 2011

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  • Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • 2016 Closure on Shirt Tail Peak Effective March 11,2016 MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Begin between The Hot Spur and Waiting Room.

    P1: Climb the lichen-covered dihedral to a pine tree, 100 feet (5.9 entry to access dihedral, then mostly 5.8).

    P2: Climb to the loose ledge, aiming for the hanging dihedral system left of Northumberland Crack’s crux pitch. Climb through bulge and the steep dihedral (5.10b/c R), then climb a slab angling slightly left near top on prominent 5.7 R jugs to a ledge, 110 feet.

    P3: Climb obvious thin crack right of the Hot Spur’s final pitch (5.10c, 35 feet).


    Standard Eldo rack.

    Comments on Controlled Burn Add Comment
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    By gregmiller7
    From: boulder, co
    Oct 3, 2012

    If this is the dihedral around the corner of p.1 of Hot Spur, I climbed the first pitch in early 2010 (March?) and called it Machete 5.9. The first bit was really bushy. We continued up a big flake to the pine tree. I'll look for exact date. Fun first pitch though!