You & This Route
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Begin between The Hot Spur
and Waiting Room
P1: Climb the lichen-covered dihedral to a pine tree, 100 feet (5.9 entry to access dihedral, then mostly 5.8).
P2: Climb to the loose ledge, aiming for the hanging dihedral system left of Northumberland Cracks
crux pitch. Climb through bulge and the steep dihedral (5.10b/c R), then climb a slab angling slightly left near top on prominent 5.7 R jugs to a ledge, 110 feet.
P3: Climb obvious thin crack right of the Hot Spurs
final pitch (5.10c, 35 feet).
Standard Eldo rack.
From: boulder, co
Oct 3, 2012
If this is the dihedral around the corner of p.1 of Hot Spur, I climbed the first pitch in early 2010 (March?) and called it Machete 5.9. The first bit was really bushy. We continued up a big flake to the pine tree. I'll look for exact date. Fun first pitch though!