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Contraceptive Cracks 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A3-

Type:  Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A3- [details]
FA: Glen Banks, Mark Dalen, Paul Horak, Ken Trout, June, 1980
Page Views: 1,831
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Jan 16, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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BETA PHOTO: Photo by MP contributor m-earle.

Introduction, Description, & Equipment 

After having to bail off the first ascent of the Hallucinogen Wall, this route was a consolation prize for me. My luck changed from rain-cursed to sunny when I met three climbers from New Mexico who were experienced Yosemite wall climbers. Even better, they all knew how to hand drill in granite.

On our way to the Los Pinos trail head, we stopped near Vallecito Lake to hire a wrangler. That same afternoon, we hiked in half way to a trail-side bivouac. The packer met us the next day at the main campsite, located along Flint Creek, a bit upstream and past the Popes Nose. Ropes were fixed over several days and we took turns with the pitches.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark Leonard jumars the fixed ropes on summit day.
Mark Leonard jumars the fixed ropes on summit day.

Rock Climbing Photo: Mark leading the summit roof pitch.
Mark leading the summit roof pitch.

Rock Climbing Photo: From Kozak, 1985.
From Kozak, 1985.

Bring thin pitons, hooks, mashies, bat-hooks and modern cams to #4. Be ready to back up the old bolts and in that case maybe some ropes to fix or a ledge. And the desire to make the second ascent?

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By Mark Dalen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jan 6, 2012

Kozak's topo looks pretty spot-on, but I thought I'd flesh it out a bit given my own (shaky) memory. Down low I do remember lots of mashies & hooking. The plan was to establish the first 4 pitches in 2 teams over 2 days, then unite on the third for a summit push. Somehow in the end it wound up being only you & Mark Leonard (green shirt in your jumaring photo) to finish up. Most gratified anyway to be credited for my contribution....
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Feb 4, 2014

Only Mark and I went to the top? Uh-oh! We should go back, trade leads, all top out, and then bag another new route. July, 2014, is good for me.

Thanks for helping with my sketchy memory, Paul (or Glen?).
By Mark Dalen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Feb 5, 2014

I had strained my lower back, Ken, as you may recall, & Paul caught some stomach virus ... my high point was the bolted stance below the roof where you took the pic above. Would like nothing better than to go back & tidy up loose ends ... however, once that starts, it might never end. Good job on filling out the page here....

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