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Continental Drift 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall through Spring
Page Views: 2,106
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Apr 23, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Zoltan piecing together the details of this crypti...


Continental Drift is an audacious route that climbs up a wide white streak twenty feet right of The Black Solitaire. Start on bulbous rock with big moves between big holds. Take your rest at the break, and bear hug the block to access the thin pocketed climbing above. The crux involves some serious crimping, body tension, balance, and a good huck to an undercling pocket! Or a slight variation to the right that follows a faint path of crimps which shorter folks like. I don't think it changes the grade. However both demand some serious cracking. Yuu do however get a decent shake after that, but the steep 5.11 to the anchors will surely give you a run for your money.


Middle of the Main Wall


13 bolts, long runners can be helpful in the lower middle section. fixed biner anchor.

Photos of Continental Drift Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Greco getting set up for crux maneuvers.  Wad...
Matt Greco getting set up for crux maneuvers. Wad...
Rock Climbing Photo: Zoltan on Continental Drift 5.12+
Zoltan on Continental Drift 5.12+
Rock Climbing Photo: Keith on the undercling which marks the end O' the...
Keith on the undercling which marks the end O' the...
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux.
The crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Keith Beckley moving into the rather long crux sec...
Keith Beckley moving into the rather long crux sec...

Comments on Continental Drift Add Comment
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By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 14, 2012

Well, I got to say that this thing has seen some strong talent, and the consensus is putting this rig more in the .13- range. Cool to see the sports action, and the falls are clean....
By Blake M
Jan 14, 2012

JJ I think that is a good grade for it, but I would be interested to see what some other people think too. Either way its a great climb [and hard]. Thanks again for all your hard work up there. I excited to give this thing another go.
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 28, 2012

Props to Zoltan for making the 2nd ascent of this line today. A very strong send indeed.
By Abel Jones
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 4, 2012
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Good hard fun! Definitely more than one way to do this, John and I got it done the "easy" way and skipped the 10th bolt on the sends. Still clocks in at 12+ in my mind.
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 4, 2012

Nice work guys, this thing has now seen a handful of ascents in just the last week, and I'm psyched to see it. Skipping the 10th bolt is the key beta for the send!
By Ethan Y
Oct 15, 2015

Just tried this thing ground up on a whim after warming up on thundermoon and man, I have not been whipped so hard on a route since I was a wee little boy. Hard!! Especially with fat fingers that kept me from getting into the fingercrack out left at the crux. I imagine that this move wouldn't be so bad for a tall guy with slightly smaller fingers but I was stumped and had to find another way out right which felt waayyy easier but definitely left me feeling vulnerable away from the boltline. Oh well, I'm a sissy! Made it to the top and started dry-heaving. Never been happier clipping bolts with my hand in a huge crack. Came down only to realize that I had carried all of the gear in and had to carry it all out. Considered tossing my bag into the canyon and trundling it to the base of the canyon. Decided against it. Hiked out without falling or getting benighted. Baller. Gonna wait until it gets colder before I try this one again, but mannn amazing route and props to past ascentionists!

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