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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, Jessica True, and Holly Parsons, 2001
Page Views: 2,905
Submitted By: Rog on Oct 12, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (66)
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BETA PHOTO: L - R: The Luminosity (red), Tower of Power (green...

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  • Description 

    Follow the directions to the Main Wall of Solaris. This is the first route you run across. From the base of the route, it is difficult to see the second pitch, but you can see the beefy bolts for the first.

    The first pitch doesn't look too inspiring. Rossiter's site calls it 5.7. I guess there is a 7 move in there, but the first 'pitch' is really there to get to the better climbing up above. Clip four bolts to the anchor on a nice ledge with a bit of loose rock.

    The second pitch is fun. This was our last climb for the day, and it felt a bit hard for 9 but probably due to tiredness. From the belay, you can clip the first bolt, then move up, clip, make a strenuous layback move, and keep going up. Toward the end of the pitch, you pull onto a slab for a couple moves, then continue up to the anchor on a nice ledge with a great view.

    It would be possible to walk off from here, but rapping the route is certainly more convenient. We had a 70m rope and even with the long cord it took two raps to get down - the 70m would have left about 15' of downclimbing.

    I wouldn't go to Solaris for this route, but if you're there it's worth getting on it.

    PS. I'm sure you can climb this in one pitch....


    Described on Rossiter's site as two pitches. First has 4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, second has 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

    Photos of Contact Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Annette nearing the top of p1 (10-18-03).
    Annette nearing the top of p1 (10-18-03).
    Rock Climbing Photo: The upper slab section below the anchor.
    BETA PHOTO: The upper slab section below the anchor.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1 (10-18-03)
    BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 (10-18-03)
    Rock Climbing Photo: Christa Cline at the overhang on the first pitch.
    Christa Cline at the overhang on the first pitch.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Marga Powell moving left into the crux of the seco...
    Marga Powell moving left into the crux of the seco...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The upper slab section.
    BETA PHOTO: The upper slab section.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The second pitch.
    BETA PHOTO: The second pitch.

    Comments on Contact Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 10, 2016
    By Jake Wyatt
    From: Longmont, CO
    Oct 19, 2003

    A 60m rope will get you down (without much to spare) from the p2 anchors to the p1 anchors, but make sure your rope ends are even.
    By Jake Wyatt
    From: Longmont, CO
    Oct 19, 2003

    The second pitch is a fun one. Some well protected moves on big jugs, with less than stellar feet. Definitely worth a go if you're in the area. The first pitch isn't great, but it's over quickly.
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 30, 2004

    Watch out for loose rock on this one. If you look at the beta photo for the first pitch, there is a pretty well-defined block just below the second bolt. That is not there anymore because it peeled off when I was climbing and came within inches of causing some serious damage to my partner's head. Lots of lichen on the rock as well.
    By Steve Marr
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Aug 7, 2006
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    I thought this was a great route, and definitely worth the visit. The first pitch felt a little harder than 5.7 at the third bolt. You can't see the P1 anchors until you are past the fourth bolt and pull up onto the ledge. The second pitch was a lot of fun - great climbing throughout on great rock. The crux comes early at the second bolt, followed by a fun transition from face to slab just below the anchors. The anchors are in a great position with good views up the canyon. Definitely recommended.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Aug 30, 2006
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

    This route falls into the grey area of what should or should not be bolted. After leading it last night without clipping any of the bolts, I found it to be significantly better and more engaging when done trad and as a single pitch.
    Why I say that this is a 'grey area' climb is that there are some runouts or difficult areas to place gear. A beginner at this level should not attempt the lead. An experienced leader should be OK.
    Take a set of cams from .3" to 2.5" and a set of nuts and a significant number of slings, since the pitch is long and wanders a little.
    The stars, difficulty, and protection grade I give here are accounting for doing it trad.
    By Robby Cribbs
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 17, 2009
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Excellent climb for your first multi-pitch experience. Well bolted, great ledges and no move harder than 5.9. While not the greatest route in the area, it's worth getting on.
    By CJ Coccia
    From: Denver, CO
    May 2, 2010
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    The first pitch was a bit of a waste...but would be good for people just wanting to get the feel of clipping without any real stress.

    The second pitch is really fun that gives you a great view at the end!
    By George Bracksieck
    Aug 23, 2012

    The nut and hanger on the sixth bolt, which protects the crux on pitch two, are loose. Bring a wrench for a large-size nut. BTW that bolt is poorly placed, so that the hanger can't rest flush against the rock. BTW I found no good trad placement near the crux.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Aug 9, 2013

    I agree that the crux on pitch two is at about the 6th bolt and not at the second one.
    By Mark Roth
    From: Boulder
    May 29, 2014

    With a 70m, you can climb the whole thing as one pitch and lower back to the mid-anchor so your partner can lead the 2nd pitch too....
    By Conor Felletter
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Jul 24, 2014

    Some of the clips required a bit of a reach. Might not be the best for a shorter person not confident at the grade. I (5'8") was able to clip pretty confidently, but my friend (5'6") struggled a bit more. Also, be careful when your pulling your rope. There are so many ledges to catch the rope on. I got it caught and had to clip up three bolts of p2 and do the some what sketchy downclimb off the big ledge. If nothing else, you should do this route for the beautiful views. Some of the best belay stations I've been too.
    By Mark Griffin
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 10, 2015

    I thought the second pitch was really enjoyable and well worth doing if you're at Solaris.
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Aug 25, 2016

    Dale Haas and I brought a wrench and tightened the 6th bolt on the 2nd pitch as well as all the other bolts on the 2nd pitch as well. If you go right at the 2nd bolt, it is much easier than going left. That might be why some people think the crux of the route is at the 2nd bolt.
    By Travis Provin
    From: Boulder CO
    Sep 10, 2016
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Communication between my belayer and I was very difficult with the road and the river, fyi.

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