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Right Side Gully
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Adaptive Expectations S 
Capitalism & Freedom S 
Classically Liberal S 
Consumption Dysfunction S 
Free to Choose S 
Invisible Hand S 
Natural Rate of Unemployment S 
Permanent Income Hypothesis S 
Rose T 

Consumption Dysfunction 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Matthew Fienup & Jesse Groves, October 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 965
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Oct 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Red: Classically Liberal (5.10d) Yellow: Consumpti...

Description 

The route follows a meandering line up a shallow water streak which leads to steep face climbing on the left side of the formation. The crux involves a few awkward moves past the second bolt. A second crux involves a few insecure moves past the fifth bolt. In general, the route is marked by steep and sustained but only moderately difficult face climbing.

Be careful not to pull on out on the large, loose flake to the left of the third lead bolt.

Location 

This route and its 10d neighbor are located on the front-most and right-most flatiron in the Fortress. From the base of "Free to Choose," traverse 40 yards right to the start of the route. "Consumption Dysfunction" is the left-hand of 2 routes on the formation.

Protection 

7 bolts plus 2 open shuts (11kN Fixe Supershuts).


Photos of Consumption Dysfunction Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex on Consumption Dysfuction with Richard Duncan...
Alex on Consumption Dysfuction with Richard Duncan...

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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Oct 23, 2007

Interestingly, there was evidence of previous climbing attempts on this route. Approximately 15 feet below the top of the formation were 2 bolts with hangers that were likely used as a top-rope anchor. These were removed and the route now extends all the way to the top. The bolts were located here
By Chad Parker
From: Ventura, California
Apr 22, 2016

Such a sweet line thanks Matthew and Jesse.

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