REI Community
Black Widow Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bands of Gold S 
Black Widow Recess T 
Caught in the Web S 
Center T 
Consilience S 
Dracula S 
F**k You S 
Far Right, The T 
Fire Down Below, The T 
Gyromancy S 
Kate Moss S 
Mordred S 
Pipe Dreams S 
Resonator S 
Right Side T 
Right Side? aka Bong Session T 
Smoke Down S 
Specter T 
Wired T 


YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Vanio Kodas and Moe Hershoff
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 4,798
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (95)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Lin deciding left or right? (Both work.)

  • Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    I am going to go out on a limb here. This is one of the best slab route in the area. This climb offers continuous, quality climbing up a near vertical face/slab on knobs and small edges that lead to expose moves out a small overhang just below the anchor. A longer and better version of the "Scientist" with a hard move to gain a ledge near the top. The route starts on the northeast face of the rock just left of the old "Left Side" route. Climb up to the first bolt with caution or just stick-clip it. Reach a small crack and the first of several technical moves. Fire straight up on good holds and reach a small ledge. Climb up through a small bulge and get ready for 40 feet of great, near vertical slab climbing. The crux is getting to the ledge just below the overhang. Reach the ledge, climb right out the overhang on good edges and cruise up to the anchor.I would give this route four stars if not for dirt and a little moss still on the route. Should clean up nicely with more ascents. Be careful lowering as a 60 meter rope barely makes it to the ground.


    15 bolts lead to a two bolt anchor. You need at least a 60 meter rope to reach the ground!


    Per Mark Rolofson: bring a 70 meter rope or two ropes to descend.

    Photos of Consilience Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Consilience.
    BETA PHOTO: Consilience.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mike R high-stepping left to reach the arete.
    Mike R high-stepping left to reach the arete.
    Rock Climbing Photo: At the fourth bolt of 15.
    At the fourth bolt of 15.
    Rock Climbing Photo: On what can be the crux section. There's basically...
    On what can be the crux section. There's basically...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Moving right around the roof is easy if you go hig...
    Moving right around the roof is easy if you go hig...
    Rock Climbing Photo: You're likely to experience some confusion as you ...
    You're likely to experience some confusion as you ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the first crux section. You tiptoe up and...
    Starting the first crux section. You tiptoe up and...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Christa Cline high-stepping on the upper slab.
    Christa Cline high-stepping on the upper slab.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Christa Cline on Consilience (left) and Susan Schi...
    Christa Cline on Consilience (left) and Susan Schi...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ron Olsen high-stepping a move on the lower slab.
    Ron Olsen high-stepping a move on the lower slab.

    Comments on Consilience Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 26, 2015
    By BL
    Aug 29, 2003

    From talking to BobD on the day he put this up, I know that the FA date was August 26, 2003, not January 1, 2002.

    Also, somehow the cliff got left out here. According to what Bob told me, this route is on the extreme left side of the Black Widow Slab, sorta in the gully area between Black Widow and Vampire, or at least that's how I understood what Bob said.

    This route is clearly visible from Blood Doll on Vampire.

    I'm looking forward to trying it, it sounds cool.

    By David A. Turner
    Jun 7, 2004
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    There may be only one other slab climb better than this in Boulder Canyon. That would be, in my opinion, Bearcat Goes to Hollywood. We had rope shortage with 60 meters, and had to leave a biner. It was worth it. Finding the route is straightforward. It is not very far up the gully between Black Widow and Vampire. The picture on the route description makes its location obvious. There is another route just to the left (Kate Moss?) that is unappealing in appearance.
    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 26, 2004
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    A stellar climb; probably the best sport route I've done in Boulder Canyon. Continuously interesting climbing from bottom to top, with many 5.10 moves and several spots of 5.11. The route was quite clean, with no moss or lichen in evidence.

    The move to the first bolt wasn't too bad; I didn't feel the need for a stick clip.

    A 70m rope works well, allowing you to lower or rappel with a few feet of rope to spare.
    By Tom Painter
    Sep 11, 2004
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Fantastic climb - the midsection is reminiscent of the second pitch of Earth Voyage in Dream - delicate diagonal. We predict though that we'll hear soon about someone decking off of this line - 60m given the variability in lengths of 60m cords isn't necessarily sufficient - 70m better! Kate Moss and the neighbor to the right are worthy warmups as well.
    By Bob Rotert
    Jun 15, 2005
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    Very fun route and an interesting slab climb. D'Antonio is the FA Meister!! Thanks for this one Bob!

    I was surprised to see so many excellent climbers rating this 11 and not even easy 11.

    Maybe I am off here but it makes me think I was on the wrong route ...
    To offer some benchmark comparisons for perspective.

    > Crux of Aerospace in Eldo rated 11b,
    > last Pitch of Doub Griffith rated 11b,
    > 1st pitch of Athletes Feat rated 11a,
    > 1st pitch of Country Club rated 11c,
    > Naked Edge

    Don't get me wrong. I'm not dissing the route, at all, because it is great climbing and really fun. A great addition by Bob, Vanio & Moe all of whom can can climb way harder than this. However nothing on this route feels even close to as hard as any single crux on the comparison routes I listed. That's just my opinion in trying to bring some perspective to some route ratings in Bolter Canyon which many times seems to be on some other scale than the US Yosemite Decimal System when it comes to ratings on many of the bolted routes. Line this up next to slab routes else where in the USA rated 11 and I don't think it compares.

    Enjoy, but watch out when lowering off this one as a 200 foot rope is not quite long enough to get you all the way down!!!
    By Bruce Pech
    Aug 8, 2005
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Superb, sustained slab climbing. The crux is at least .11a and probably .11b. If you plan on climbing Kate Moss as well as Consilience, a 70m rope (or two 60s) is mandatory. Lowering from Consilience takes 105' -110' of rope; lowering from Kate Moss takes about 115'.
    By crankenstein
    Sep 28, 2008

    An awesome pitch! One of the best in Boulder Canyon at the rating. I agree with the 11b/c for onsight. A little easier once you know where the secret holds are.
    By Alan Doak
    From: boulder, co
    Nov 5, 2008
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    I hate to sound like I'm ragging on Boulder Canyon grades. I usually agree with them, and besides, I expect each area (and climber) to have their own biases one way or another. But, compared to the slabs I've done in JTree, Squamish and the Valley, I think this route is way over graded. It's still a fun route though.
    By chris schulte
    Sep 19, 2010

    60 m rope puts you like 20' off the ground when lowering....
    Grade seems good-ish to me..?
    By slim
    Jul 18, 2012
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Really good route. Overall more sustained than The Scientist over at Plotinus, but the actual crux is significantly easier. Being a slab, you can pretty much rest anywhere on it, so overall I would say this is easier than The Scientist. Nice, long route with good rock quality and continuous climbing.
    By Peter J. Beyel
    From: Glenwood Springs
    Sep 8, 2013
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    Fantastic line. I think this feels more like 11d than 11a/b. Felt harder than almost all of the 11s I've done at Rifle or in Boulder Canyon.
    By erik rieger
    From: Ridgway, CO
    Sep 9, 2013

    This route is excellent, with great rock, great moves, and interesting holds. Some shenanigans were required to lower with a 60m rope.
    By Mark Rolofson
    May 5, 2015
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Great route. Thanks, Vaino, for doing such a fine job bolting & cleaning. That said, shame on Bob D'Antonio for putting it in his Boulder Canyon guidebook that you can get down this climb with a 60 meter rope & to Ron Olsen for doing so in this post. Please refer to my guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II (2005)" that states bring a 70 meter rope or two ropes to descend. A guidebook writer shouldn't given a pass by the climbing community or industry for such a dangerous error.

    So here is a trick to get down this route with a 60 meter rope. Anchor in at the top anchor & be taken off belay. Pull the rope up through all the protection bolts & drop it back to the ground. Have your belayer put you back on belay. Make sure they put a knot in the end of the rope. As you are lowered, the belayer can walk left uphill so they are standing on higher ground. This should solve the problem & allow you to lower to the ground.
    By climberish
    Jul 26, 2015

    A stellar slab route. Definitely "well" bolted. Would be quite a bit more fun if the bolting was a bit spicier...but very fun. I found it easier than Gyromancy, and would suggest a grade of no harder than 5.11a.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About