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Conquest of the Irrational 

Hueco: V9 Font: 7C

   
Type:  Boulder, 11'
Original:  Hueco: V9 Font: 7C [details]
FA: Luke Parady
Page Views: 469
Submitted By: Joe M. on Sep 20, 2010

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Description 

Start sitting in center of face with both hands on a low crimp rail that diagonals up and right. With a left foot backstepped power up and left to a gaston/crimper (hold broke in winter 2012). Then move right hand up and right to a small sharp crimper and finish by dynoing left hand to a good rail at the lip. Beta may vary but this is essentially how the problem goes. #2 in the beta photo.

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By Christopher J Simpson
May 6, 2012

I don't know when this description was posted or when the grade was established, but the gaston broke, making the first move up and left harder than it used to be.
By Joe M.
Administrator
May 7, 2012

The hold broke over the winter. What's intereting is that this is now how the problem was first done, without that gaston hold. Probably back to V10 now as the FA'er originally suggested.
By Christopher J Simpson
May 8, 2012

Joe, did the FA go up and left to the heinous gaston, or even further left to the positive, sidepulling crimps? (That I would previously have suspected were "off-route")
By Joe M.
Administrator
May 9, 2012

The FA went left to the small sidepull, then right to the opposing sidepull (which would be the next hold from the broken hold) then dyno'd straight up (left hand, I think) to the good hold at the top. The right finish (left to the broken hold, right to the small crimp, then right again) became standard after the FA and was why it went from solid V10 down to V9.
By Troy Fauteux
From: Henniker NH
Jan 15, 2017
rating: V10 7C+

Not the best hard line in Lincoln Woods but a powerful crimp test piece to say the least. Being able to hold the right hand crimp and maneuver your feet around was insanely difficult. Felt V10 this way but it was also my 15th tick of the day so my skin was running pretty low. Footage of this climb starts at 1:09.

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