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Prune Face Slab
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Connor's Playground 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Tony & Connor Calderone
Page Views: 166
Submitted By: Scott Morris on Oct 17, 2016

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Blue line is Connor's Playground.

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Begin the climb just below and left of the large, dark grey patch that is roughly 12 feet up. My first piece was a gold Camalot in the crack running through this grey patch. Continue up until you spot the first bolt maybe 20 feet up and follow the line of bolts until you reach the chain anchor, supplementing the spaced-out bolts with a couple of medium cam placements. Somewhat discontinuous climbing.

Supposedly there is a another pitch above this one with protection and anchor unknown.

Location 

Located roughly 25 yards west of Shuffleboard and Prune Face Slab. A nice flat base is directly below the route.

Protection 

4 bolts, medium sized cams (0.75 - 2 Camalot), 2 bolt anchor.


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By Oscar Wheeler
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 19, 2017

First pitch is really easy climbing. Beginning is a little run out if you go to the first bolt.

The second pitch was interesting. I think the new LCC book puts it at a 5.9? Getting onto the upper face isn't as bad as I thought and the traverse to the first bolt was no problem. A BD #3 was extremely useful in the horizontal crack below the second bolt. A fall without the # 3 would likely result in some pain. It is just some fun slab climbing to the top once you get to the second bolt.

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