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Condor S 
Conflict S 
Dehumanized T,S 
Drunk Punk Oi S 
Grommet S 
Imperial S 
Scratchin' for the Loomer S 
Steel Reserve T 
Total Ramon T,S 
Uncensored Society S 
Unknown S 


YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: G. Martinez and L.Douglas 5/28/04
Page Views: 3,125
Submitted By: glen kaplan on Aug 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (64)
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Conflict - Ferguson Canyon > The Watchtower >...


Longish, steep and juggy, open-handed climb that ends on anchors above 'Steel Reserve'


just up the slope to (newly) leveled area...about 20-30 ft. uphill from 'Total Ramon' and 50-60 ft. uphill from 'Fortress' flat spot...


11 bolts + anchors

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 20, 2015
By Dave Budge
From: South Slope of the Hindu Kush
Aug 14, 2007

By JimG
Sep 16, 2007

Very good route. hard for 10d, I would tend to agree with 11a.
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Aug 24, 2008

The grade depends on how you tackle it. If you directly climb the crack sections, it's a gritty task. If you wend your way around using face holds and side options, it's legit 10d.
By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 25, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Amazing moves through the first few bolts. Very good indeed!
By jonathan knight
Jun 28, 2009

Great gear lead for some added value.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 1, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Some wind gust recently uprooted/broke a large tree that was sitting by the leveled base. The whole area is sliding away and there's a large block that wants to go. Tiptoe around this place for a while, when the roots finally let go and that rock starts moving it won't stop until it reaches the stream.

Good route, long reaches to good holds and funky moves around the crack.
Bolts everywhere.
By Alec LaLonde
Sep 27, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

My partner and I both thought this was a bit soft for 5.10d. There are plenty of rests all the way up. Unfortunately it's a bit overbolted.
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 27, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

great climbing, solid moves, and ridiculously overbolted.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Sep 19, 2011

Fun. 10d is probably accurate, though that crack section is a bit strenuous and awkward. I try not to complain about routes being overbolted as there are so many routes elsewhere I wish had more.(LCC)
By benjaminleaton Eaton
From: Sandy, UT
Jul 2, 2012

The climb is great and all, but my reason for giving it four starts is due to the height of the route. This one towers over all the others for single pitch...a true pitch compared to all the other 20 foot routes. I also like that you can lead it on trad if you so desired.
By Sam Miller
From: salt lake city, UT
Aug 12, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Really good. I feel it's a solid .10d. And the people complaining about the overbolting need to get over it. If you feel there are too many bolts, then don't clip them. In fact do it trad or even solo it. But, the close bolts make the climb way more accessible to a lot of people that would otherwise never get to experience this beautiful line.
By notmyname
From: Sandy, UT
Jun 26, 2013

bring a wrench and hammer - the bolts are oriented poorly (holes face down) and could result in breaking a biner or backclipping. besides that, stellar route
By Graden Swett
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 20, 2015

Finally sent this climb after it defeated me last fall. What a great climb, awesome movement through (what felt to me like) a sustained crux of about three bolts. I would describe this climb as confidence inspiring, not over bolted. Each bolt protects airy moves which vary in technique, so for someone who isn't a veteran climber I thought it was great. It also seemed to me that only one bolt was at an odd angle, and someone put a locking ring on another bolt to help prevent loading your beaner on the rock. I highly recommend this climb, as a comfortable 5.10 leader most places I go, this route pushed me to believe in my feet and friction and was an absolute blast to the end.

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