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Gargoyle Wall
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Type:  Trad, Aid
Original: A1+ [details]
FA: The Smoots
Page Views: 1,008
Submitted By: Orphaned on Apr 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Great nailing up a small diagonalling crack! This route is a must for the aid climber trying to break into the nailing game. I only climbed the first pitch, and neglected the nice looking 5.8 crack above. Originally rated A4, but has been done enough to enable it to be done safely. If you have done the whole route, please edit this with better information.


Up the Fin Gulley.


A free rack with pitons.

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By Bill Bones
May 10, 2007

This is a great route to learn some pin craft.
By James Garrett
Jul 12, 2008

I suspect with the scars, though, it is also presently an excellent candidate for the hard boys and girls to get after. 5.13?, ya, probably. I bet this one is going down soon.
By bsmoot
Jul 30, 2008

I think the original aid rating should have been more like A3, given the comparison to Tin Man. Aid ratings were also different then. Although I haven't been on this route since '82 the A1+ rating seems a bit stout.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 11, 2016
rating: A2

I climbed this solo in 1985 when it was rated "A4" - no chance of that rating. It did have some great thin nailing with tied off pins and maybe some RURPs if I recall, but there was no risk of a big fall. Not sure how it would be rated now with tiny brass and microcams. Regardless it is a really good training route right here in LCC if you want to get ready for a big nail-up in the Valley or some other granite wall.

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