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Confederacy of Dunces 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jerry Handren
Page Views: 1,497
Submitted By: bayard russell jr on Aug 10, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Above the roof, Confederacy has a airey feel that most of Sundown's routes don't have. Great climbing.

The initial corner and roof make a great warm-up at abut 5.11a - just above the roof you can easily traverse left along a horizontal hand crack to the anchor on Mythras (It was first climbed to this point by Chris Gill and Andy Ross, and, according to Ed Webster's guidebook, was called "Tits out for the Lads".)

The crux of the route is above the roof, it's great climbing with big, clean fall potential. All the moves feel pretty good on their own, but it's hard to put it all together.


Start below an obvious right facing corner just right of Eyeless in Gaza and Mythras.


Trad gear protects about half the route, then bolts and a pin. A cam goes in below the roof.

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