REI Community
Coney Island

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angry Dragon 
Another Way T 
Badger Traverse, The S 
Bait, The T,S 
Dampened Enthusiasm S 
Der Letzte Zug S 
Die Reeperbahn S 
Feeding the Beast S 
Fly Swatter S 
Fly Trap S 
Gagger S 
Gagger With A Bone S 
Give the Dog a Bone S 
Joy Ride S 
Lucky Strikes Again S 
New Fanatic S 
Pri-Moe T,S 
Prong S 
Quintet T 
Red Badger S 
Runaway S 
Twist and Shout S 
Work It On Out S 
Unsorted Routes:

Coney Island Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,650'
Location: 39.9928, -105.4181 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 21,058
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jan 1, 2001
Forecast:
This Afternoon

66° | 42°
Friday

65° | 33°
Saturday

44° | 31°
Sunday

55° | 37°
Monday

58° | 34°
Tuesday

52° | 33°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Jerry Moffatt on Der Letzte Zug.

  • Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Coney Island is often difficult to spot. It stands precipitously above the road, although it poses most hazard to drivers during the approach. All of the climbing departs from huge ledge systems that provide loads of room to maneuver without pitching rocks onto the road. Nonetheless, it is always advisable to be hyper aware of the possibility for rolling rocks into the road. The crag is split into upper and lower tiers, both being composed of arch-typal Boulder granite. The climbing is often well edged, with solid, in-cut flakes. Mostly vertical to a tad beyond vertical, difficulty often results from thin moves and big reaches on bad feet. Smearing with technical footwork are common place.

    L->R:

    Below Lower Tier

    Angry Dragon, V7

    Lower Tier

    A. The Bait, 11-, 1p, gear.
    B. Twist And Shout, 13, 1p, bolts.
    C. Fly Trap, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts.
    D. Flies In The Soup, 11, 1p, 40', bolts.
    E. Prong, 12+, 1p, 40', bolts.
    F. Fly Swatter, 10, 1p, 35', 3 bolts.
    G. Work It On Out, 12+, 1p, 25', bolts.
    H. Dampened Enthusiasm, 12-, 1p, 30', bolts.
    HI. Wet Badger, 12-, 1p, bolts.
    I. Red Badger, 11+, 1p, 25', bolts.
    IG. Over Enthusiam, 13, 1p, connects I->G, bolts.
    IG. The Badger Traverse, 13-, 1p, connects I->G, bolts.

    Upper Tier

    J. Feeding TheBeast, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
    K. Joy Ride, 12, 1p, bolts.
    L. Der Letzte Zug, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
    M. Die Reeperbahn, 13, 1p, bolts.
    N. Loading Zone, 10+ R, gear.
    O. Psyclone, 11+, 2p, gear.
    P. Quintet, 10, 2p, gear.
    Q. Give The Dog A Bone, 13-, 1p, bolts.
    R. Coney Island Baby, 12- R, 1p, gear.
    SQ. Gagger With A Bone, 13, 1p, 90', bolts.
    S. Gagger, 13+, 1p, bolts.
    above S. Exit, 9, 1p, gear.
    T. Fat Cat, 10+, 1p, gear.

    U. Another Way, 9 R, 1p, 130', gear.
    V. Runaway 8+, 1p, 120', bolts.

    East Face
    W1. Pri Moe, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
    W2. Lucky Strikes Again, 9, 1p, 60', bolts.


    ?. Mongouichi, 10, 2p, 300', gear.

    Getting There 

    Drive about 9 miles west on Canyon Boulevard. Continue west of the crag proper about 200 yards to a large pull-out on the South side of the canyon. This will drop down to the river on a brief dirt road that offers good parking and is discrete. Hike back downstream to a faint trail (the river is on the right) that heads off uphill on the North side of the canyon. The trail forks shortly with the right hand branch going to the lower cliff. Continue upwards to approach the upper cliff. You travel a distance that seems long, over some easy exposed rock in the trail. The routes begin at a small saddle and continue downhill and to the right for 200 feet or so.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 4.4 miles from here

    23 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',1]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',3],['5.11',4],['5.12',6],['5.13',6],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Coney Island

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Coney Island:
    Runaway   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
    The Bait   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
    Joy Ride   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Der Letzte Zug   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
    Give the Dog a Bone   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Die Reeperbahn   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Twist and Shout   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Coney Island

    Featured Route For Coney Island
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mark Tarrant starts up GDB on Coney Island.

    Give the Dog a Bone 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  Colorado : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island
    Lieback up a short 5.10 dihedral to a long reach out left. Move up to a narrow ledge and rest. Tough moves lead up and left to a thin crack and the crux. A few more moves lead to a big ledge and the anchor. There are several places where additional gear can be placed to lessen the distance between bolts....[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

    Photos of Coney Island Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mark climbing something hard. Not sure, what the r...
    Mark climbing something hard. Not sure, what the r...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Found at the base of the Upper Tier.  It is an 8'x...
    Found at the base of the Upper Tier. It is an 8'x...

    Comments on Coney Island Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Stephan Greenway
    Sep 12, 2003
    Last Sunday while waiting out the rain my friends and I did a little "route appreciation" up and down Boulder Canyon. We stopped and hiked up to check-out Coney Island. The upper tier looked clean, and there are some routes we were all pretty excited about returning to climb on a better day.

    But the lower tier was a pile! I was frankly shocked that someone bolted the crap out of the short, right section. In many places these "routes" would be boulder problems.... In my twenty years of climbing, that has to be the worst pile of shite I've ever seen bolted. I thought the Sport Park and Punk Rock were pathetic, but that really takes the cake!

    I just wonder...does every little itty bitty piece of rock need to be turned into an over-bolted playground?
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Sep 13, 2003
    I think that this website needs a section for ranting about why anyone would climb at this or that cliff. Granted, Lower Coney Island isn't classic, but it isn't chipped, there are a few good hard routes, and the last time I checked no one was complaining that Boulder had too many of those. Lighten up and save your ranting energy for climbing.
    By Stephan Greenway
    Sep 13, 2003
    Yes, Peter, there are some great routes on the left side of Coney Island. They, however, in no way excuse the over-bolted piles of crap on the right side. It's this sort of irresponsible drilling that gets land managers' attention. Is it too much to ask when we hope that people drilling on public lands show an itty bit of restraint when choosing what to bolt?

    I don't need to save my energy to climb...I've got plenty to do both just fine thanks.
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Sep 14, 2003
    Concerning the right side, do the routes and then decide.
    By Stephan Greenway
    Sep 15, 2003
    Peter Beal....c'mon, I think I can formulate a fair opinion on the subject of over-bolting and responsibility when putting up routes without climbing every route somebody decides needs to be fired in.

    Sorry I'm down on a few routes, but that's just the way I feel. I never said Coney Island was a pile. In fact I look forward to heading out there and getting on some classic looking lines on the upper tier. I just think somebody got carried away a little on the lower section.
    By adam brink
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 1, 2004
    Has anyone done the 13b on upper Coney Island? Would you mind dishing out the spray on whether or not it is a good line, where the crux is and all that? Thanks!
    By Ryan Malaty
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Mar 12, 2007
    Okay, so Mike and I got up to Coney Island, and we climbed Runaway. It is an amazing climb (some runout spots and loose rock), but to the left is a route with a bunch of quickdraws still attached to the bolts, I believe that route is "Gagger."

    We set up an anchor at the top of that route, and we had a 60m rope, so we were planning on doing a multi-rep (We had to climb around the crag to get up there. There is no walk off from the top of Runaway). I rappeled down to the TR anchor... these bolts are not fully bolted in and are unsafe to tie into.

    • DO NOT CLIMB TO THE TOP OF GAGGER*

    P.S. we found an old POS green Alien, funny as hell.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About