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Conejo Mountain

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City Limits 
Mystery Science Theater 
Outcast, The 

Conejo Mountain Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 34.1978, -118.9635 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 25,199
Administrators: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 17, 2006  with updates from V0Hero
Forecast:
Tonight

60°
Tuesday

77° | 59°
Wednesday

78° | 60°
Thursday

82° | 62°
Friday

83° | 64°
Saturday

84° | 65°
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BETA PHOTO: Mystery Science Theater site overview

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Description 

The short, pumpy routes on the edgey volcanic rock here range from steep to slab. There are a few classic routes that should be considered relatively clean but for the most part expect choss and bring an helmet. The location itself is beautiful in its own way. Beautiful sunsets are year round and the Oxnard flood plain is visible from the anchors of most climbs.

While the area is technically a sport climbing destination, the rock quality is not good and loose blocks abound. Exercise caution when choosing which routes to lead. Nearly all routes can be approached from the ridge above and are easily top roped.

Conejo Boulders is located under *Santa Monica Mountains Bouldering.

Getting There 

The approaches listed previously (parking from the end of Old Conejo, the RV home park) are all trespassing. Don't use them, there is a trailhead but it's about a 25 minute walk. From Hwy 101 in Newbury Park, exit Wendy Drive. Go west on Old Conejo Road, which parallels the freeway. Turn left on Reino then right on Lesser. Follow into the residential then turn left. Park before the fire hydrant and trailhead is tucked in between the houses to your left.

WEATHER/CLIMBING SEASON
Hot in summer, cool in winter. Spring and fall are downright nice. Waiting 48 hours after rainfall is generally the accepted practice here.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.3 miles from here

34 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',3]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',4],['5.8',3],['5.9',3],['5.10',6],['5.11',4],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Conejo Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Conejo Mountain:
Push the Button Frank   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     TR   Mystery Science Theater
Pamela   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Mystery Science Theater
A Walk On The Wild Side   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Mystery Science Theater
Three's Company   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 25'   Mystery Science Theater
The Beginning of the End   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 60'   Mystery Science Theater
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Conejo Mountain

Featured Route For Conejo Mountain
Rock Climbing Photo: "Get The Butter" traverse in yellow and ...

Get The Butter 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a C0  California : Central Coast : ... : Mystery Science Theater
The route begins with the same free moves as Pamela and then traverses left on rivets to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Conejo Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: history from Allez vol 2, 1994
history from Allez vol 2, 1994
Rock Climbing Photo: Conejo Mountain trailhead, on Lesser.  Hike up bet...
Conejo Mountain trailhead, on Lesser. Hike up bet...
Rock Climbing Photo: One of the sites along the trail to Mystery Scienc...
One of the sites along the trail to Mystery Scienc...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Main Area boulders
The Main Area boulders
Rock Climbing Photo: history from Allez vol 2, 1994
history from Allez vol 2, 1994
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting close to the crag.
Getting close to the crag.
Rock Climbing Photo: Hike clock-wise around the neighborhood on an obvi...
Hike clock-wise around the neighborhood on an obvi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Marisa Fienup climbs "the Beginning of the En...
Marisa Fienup climbs "the Beginning of the En...

Comments on Conejo Mountain Add Comment
Show which comments
By M. Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 15, 2006
The routes here are short, I mean, REALLY short. It's easy to tick a dozen routes in a few hours. In general, the rock quality is fairly poor, although The Beginning of the End is quite good. Worth visiting once or twice, but certainly not a destination area.
By Maidy
Sep 16, 2009
There are some serious access issues with Mystery Science Theater. It is currently impossible to access the cliffs without trespassing on private property. The residents have made it abundantly clear they are tired of trespassers. In light of the overall poor quality of the routes- I'd recommend avoiding it.
By Ally McBeal
May 30, 2013
That is really sad, but the rock isn't that good and as Mike indicated the routes are short.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jun 23, 2013
It is technically trespassing to walk through the trailer park to access the approach trail. Over the years, I have experienced a wide range of responses from locals. Once, I received a warning from a security guard and told not to return. On several occasions, I have been invited in to a resident's trailer for iced tea.
By bpavell
Mar 20, 2017
I would really think twice before making the 1mile hike out to this "area". The routes are set pretty poorly overall, there is questionable bolt placement, and the finish anchors are haphazardly placed as well.

We were testing out a few of the start holds and they were so loose that it was not even worth getting ropes out.

The approach is pretty straight forward, no access issues with the trail head start but with all the rain there has been a massive amount of overgrowth. The lack of popularity on a otherwise perfect day of climbing goes to show that this place is left to be avoided.
By Joe Garibay
From: Ventura, Ca
Mar 20, 2017
bpavell, the anchors and bolts are drilled into sound rock, many could use a face lift, I'll admit. This is not a destination place for sure. But many locals frequent here and have recently put in a lot of work. The bouldering now takes center stage, in my opinion. And the holds are suppose to flex, if they didn't then that 5.10 would feel like a 5.8. The trick is not popping them. Climbing areas all have their charm and this ones charm is flexing, razor sharp flakes and edges.
And lack of climbers doesn't mean it's not popular. Ventura County has a special solitude about it. Call it poor rock or whatever you will, I just hope it stays this way a little while longer.
By Christian B
From: West Hills, California
Mar 21, 2017
Anyone know anything about Edison Road South? Supposedly 3 routes listed 11, 9,& 8. Listed one rockclimbing.com

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