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18 - Generator Station
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L to R R to L Alpha
Conductor Crack TR 
Cool Wheel (aka The Gauntlet) T,TR 
Generator Crack T,TR 

Conductor Crack 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 2,100
Submitted By: Ian G. on May 2, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
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Pulling the bulge.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


This is the yin to Generator Crack's yang. Tight and sometimes painful fingerlocks with super bad feet is what this climb is all about. It's pretty much a boulder problem pulling the bulge and then a perfect hands 5.7 crack to the top. Fun!


Right across the street from the generator station!


Toprope. I have belayed someone leading it, so it is possible...Bring long slings for the anchor. You can use the trees about 15 feet from the lip of the boulder. There is a bolt you can use as a directional. You also might want some nuts and cams up to .75.

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By Tommy L-D
Oct 4, 2010

There is now a second, beefy (ASCA?) bolt on top.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 9, 2011

This is basically a one-move wonder with a fingery crux pull in the crack. Felt hard for the rating, but it is literally a single hard move followed by low 5th class hiking. Crux will protect perfectly with a small cam if you chose to lead.
By Dmitriy Litvak
From: Pacifica, CA
Mar 25, 2013

Felt harder than Butterballs 11c. 11d? There is no move on Bb that is harder than the 1st 20 feet of this climb. Bb is just long. This climb is awkward.

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