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Condor Condiment 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 565', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jack Holmgren, Bob Walton, Keith Vandevere, 12/1989
Season: summer-autumn (dry)
Page Views: 1,797
Submitted By: rhyang on Oct 31, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Gap between North (right) and South (left) summits...

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  • Description 

    Pitch 1 (165', 5.8) - follow a line of nine bolts to a 2-bolt belay just below a small roof.

    Pitch 2 (100', 5.8) - traverse left past a bolt and then head up through an area with holes suitable for cams and tricams, and finally trend left with some thrilling exposure and three more bolts. 2-bolt belay.

    Pitch 3 (100', 5.7 or 5.10a) - head up past a bolt and some more holes. You eventually want to gain a ridge. The guidebook said going more to the left is 5.7R, while heading straight up past a bolt is 5.10a. I did the "5.10a" way and didn't think it was that hard, YMMV. Once on the ridge, clip another bolt, then belay at a one-bolt anchor, supplemented with gear.

    Pitch 4 (200' to the summit, fourth class) - traverse right, then atop ridge past a couple more bolts. We downclimbed a bit, then up a gully. Two bolt belay with rap rings.

    The route ends on the north summit of Condor Crag.

    Location 

    Approach: hike north from the junction of the High Peaks trail and the Juniper Canyon trail about 0.4 miles (there is an outhouse at this junction, which is about 2 miles and 1200' elevation gain from the Bear Gulch parking lot). The trail will dip down, and then climb back up steeply, up some steps cut into the rock and a railing. Pass Long's Folly on the left.

    The next major formation on the left will be Condor Crag, which has a north and south summit. Observe the gap between them near a large gray/digger pine, then take the handrail and steps down.

    The route is on the north side of Condor Crag. Continue on the trail until it is possible to descend along the north face, perhaps 100'. Bushwhacking and some third class scrambling required.

    Descent: Rappel from the summit to the first intermediate rap station near a tree -- do not go all the way down to the big alcove with the chockstone : otherwise the rope is likely to get stuck going over the sharp edge. Rappel a second time to the High Peaks trail.

    Protection 

    Cams from 0.6" to 4" (can probably leave out the #3 though), tricams, quickdraws, some longer slings, maybe a small selection of nuts. 60m rope.


    Photos of Condor Condiment Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Fourth pitch exposed traverse and downclimb
    BETA PHOTO: Fourth pitch exposed traverse and downclimb
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down partway up first pitch
    Looking down partway up first pitch
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down partway up third pitch
    Looking down partway up third pitch
    Rock Climbing Photo: Noal Elkins leading the cool second pitch
    Noal Elkins leading the cool second pitch

    Comments on Condor Condiment Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By steple
    Sep 28, 2014
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    If you climbed this route on 9/28/14, I might have some pictures of you. Message me if you are interested.
    By Steve J.
    From: Seward, AK
    Mar 13, 2017

    Had a tough time finding the start to this. Once you're off of the main trail and have picked your way down along the north face, look for the improbable bushwack which leads into a hallway like section along the base of the cliff. Definitely less traveled than many of the popular spots in Pinnacles.
    By Brett WInes
    5 hours ago

    a rack of singles will suffice (maybe double up on C4 0.75 and 0.5). You won't need BD C4 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, and 3.

    great route but really needs more bolts... not only is it disturbingly runout in many parts but a lot of the gear placements are so suspect they're really more psychological pro than anything else...

    also needs new bolts; almost all are Star Dryvins >_>

    highly recommend extending the descent rappel by 5-10 feet or so with webbing or something. We ignored the above advice and did a 60m rap and were unable to pull the ropes. We then reascended the ropes, extended it by a few feet, descended to the intermediate rap station, and *still* couldn't pull the ropes.

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