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YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Pete Takeda and Tom Parchman
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 61
Submitted By: P Takeda on Aug 7, 2006

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This route follows the obvious double overhanging corner via a right trending crack. The crack goes from offwidth to hands to fingers, finally becoming a flared fist-sized crack above the lip (crux). As with many Vedauwoo routes, the crux has an inobvious solution -- this in the form of some hidden edges. Above lip, angle dramatically kicks back for fifteen feet to the belay. Start by traversing into the crack from the right on a horizontal ledge 15 feet above the base of the alcove. Belay on the ledge (# 1 Camalot for belay).


This route is located in a shaded alcove below (and directly South) of Spelunk Spire. The clean-cut corner is visible from the trail on the left end of the discontinuous cliff band, about 200 feet left (West) of Wrist Ranger. Gandhi (5.9+) is the corner immediately right.


Single set of cams to #4 Camalot. A #6 Friend is nice to protect the opening chimney moves. Bring extra hand-sized gear for belay about 25 feet above the lip. Bolt belay should be added soon as this is a potential rope shredder.

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