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Main Wall (aka The Gorilla Head Buttress)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bodhisattva Arête  T 
Conception T 
Lightening Bear TR 
Samsara Roof T 
Tatanka T 
Tatanka Direct T 
Thunder Bunny S 
Wounded Eagle T 

Conception 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Adam Stackhouse and Friends.
Page Views: 576
Submitted By: Joshua Reinig on Apr 1, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Looking down the starting corner of Conception, th...

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  • Description 

    On my solo ascent of this superb line is when I received a phone call from my wife mid route, that we were having a child. Having done the climb hundreds of times over the course of 10 years and never having named it, this name stuck. CONCEPTION! One of the most classic lines at Old Castle crag, if not one of the most classic in San Diego. Conception climbs the striking double finger crack straight up the center head wall of the Gorilla Head Buttress. It is as sustained as it looks from the ground. With significant crux being the transition from the starting dihedral into the double finger cracks.

    Location 

    Starts right side of the Central Ledge. Climb obvious right facing corner with old bolt to small triangular roof, 25'. Exit roof on the left side to access beautiful splitter double finger crack to top.

    Protection 

    One old bolt protects first crux. Gear to 2 inches. Doubles in micro from 0-.5!
    Old school bomber chain with pitons. Back up anchor with gear sizes .4-2 inches.


    Photos of Conception Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Anchor for Conception.
    BETA PHOTO: Anchor for Conception.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Me on top of Conception!
    Me on top of Conception!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bomber TCU!!!
    Bomber TCU!!!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Starting moves of Conception.
    Starting moves of Conception.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the double finger crack from the top ...
    BETA PHOTO: Looking down the double finger crack from the top ...

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