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Twin Owls
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Alignment of the Misaligned T,TR 
Anaconda T 
Arm and Hammer 
Autumn Mist 
Black Lichen Streak TR 
Bloop T 
Bolt Boulder 
Bowels of the Owls, The T 
Caught in the Slaughterhouse T 
Cavity, The 
Central Chimney T 
Conan's Gonads (Conad's) T 
Condones T 
Coyote T,S 
Crack of Fear T 
East Ridge T 
Fist Fight T 
Hungry Man 
Jamesia Jam T 
King Cobra 
One of Life's Little Problems T 
Organ Pipes T 
Parachute Pants T 
Peaches and Cream T 
Pin Route T 
Prow, The T 
Rather Fight Than Switch T 
Senseless Meaning T,TR 
Sunset Arete T,TR 
Thimbleberry Jam T 
Thin Crack T,TR 
Tiger's Tooth T 
Tighter Squeeze T 
Tilted Mitten T 
TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct T 
True American Pinch 
Twister T 
West Chimney T 
West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) T 
Wolf's Tooth T 
Unsorted Routes:

Conan's Gonads (Conad's) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mark Hesse & Larry Bruce, ~ 1970
Page Views: 8,002
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (87)
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About to place the first piece on Conan's Gonads.

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>


This is a long, excellent, one-pitch hand crack which makes the preferred start to the classic Wolf's Tooth. It lies on the Lower Twin Owls, the large buttress which, suprisingly enough, lies directly below Twin Owls. In fact, when viewed from the parking lot it is difficult to distinguish them. "Conad's" is on the small west face of the Lower Owls, and is not visible from the parking lot.

Take the Gem [Lake] trail, but branch left after about 50 feet on a marked approach trail that disintegrates all-too-quickly. Bushwhack and scramble up the steep hillside, aiming for the west face. The route is easily identified by a roof-capped inset, about 20 feet high, out of which emerges the long, slightly left-leaning hand crack. Climb it (sustained 5.9) to a belay directly below the Wolf's Tooth Pinnacle on the Twin Owls.

Descend to the east and find a steep trail on the east side of Twin Owls, or better, continue with Wolf's Tooth (or another route).

If you need to return to the base of the climb, you can scramble directly down the East Side of the Lower Owls, which is faster than going over to the approach trail; otherwise, the trail is far more pleasant. If you continue on Wolfs Tooth or any other Twin Owls route, you can descend on the west side of the Owls to get back to the base of Conads--the scrambling is very confusing and annoying, however. Take care not to get cliffed.


Standard rack to a #4 Friend, with extra hand-sized pieces.

Photos of Conan's Gonads (Conad's) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: J2 fighting through.
J2 fighting through.
Rock Climbing Photo: J. Webster past the fun roof, entering the tough h...
J. Webster past the fun roof, entering the tough h...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brent at the base of Conads.
Brent at the base of Conads.
Rock Climbing Photo: Brent nearing the top of Conan.
Brent nearing the top of Conan.
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the real business on Conan's.
Starting the real business on Conan's.
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of Conan's Gonads (Twin Owls).
The start of Conan's Gonads (Twin Owls).
Rock Climbing Photo: Conan's from the base.
Conan's from the base.

Comments on Conan's Gonads (Conad's) Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Sep 28, 2001

If you are intending to climb "Wolf's Tooth," but find another party in front of you, climb "Tiger Tooth," which is directly on the opposite side of the pillar. It is something like 9+ initially, but easier higher up, and still just as fun.
By Nate Christiansen
Aug 1, 2003
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fantastic climbing. A little variety from a tad overhang budge, hands, fingers, offwidth. Good link up to Wolf's Tooth.
By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 23, 2005

One of my favorite single pitches at Lumpy.
By David Carter
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 7, 2005
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

...awesome for only one pitch, fun climbing with decent rests and easy pro.
By Colin Coulson
Sep 12, 2005

Certainly my favorite single pitch 9 at Lumpy so far. Excelent! Do a few laps if you're waiting for one of the teeth to open up. Thanks for the hand yesterday, David... sucks to forget the book. Glad you were there!
By Ernie Port
From: Boulder, Colorado
Sep 13, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This route was a struggle for me, as I'm more of a face climber than a hand crack climber. The middle third of this route was stout and the climbing physical and sustained. I would have to say this is one of the most demanding (9) pitches I've climbed anywhere. But the rock is excellent and the setting is superb.Gunna go back and do this one again and again...
By Danny
Oct 24, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Did this to approach Tiger's Tooth. This pitch is awesome! It is a great pitch to work on hand-size, it is fairly uniform in width except for the wide section. To me this was like Lumpy's version of Generic Crack in Donnely Canyon. Similar length, size, and difficulty. Highly recommended!!
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Aug 22, 2011

Sick line. Very fun. Slung chockstone at top allows for quick descent. 1 70m just reaches for a TR. Doubles in the hand sizes work great, i.e. #1-#3 Camalot with one each of 0.3-0.75. HANDS, HANDS, HANDS!
By Brandon Groza
From: Bend, OR
Oct 24, 2011

Super fun climb. Take the same gully for Organ Pipes, as Conad's is around the corner from that climb to the left. Conad's seems to face more northwest than west. Pry goes without saying, but don't forget your tape in the car.
By Russ Keane
Sep 26, 2016

This is a sleeper classic. Loads and loads of highly demanding, steep and slightly overhung hand/fingers crack, on iconic Lumpy Ridge A+ rock quality and lots of varied movements; not just your same thing over and over. Keeping this at 5.9 is really saying something. Way harder than J-crack which is also 5.9. I was really happy when I got to the top and only had to aid once (on follow).

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