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The Wart
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Banana Hammock T,TR 
Compound W T 
Compound W variation T,TR 
Freight Night T 
Mean Mug T,TR 
Meyah T 
Smiley Kylee T,TR 

Compound W 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Cameron Elias, Eric Lund
Page Views: 1,052
Submitted By: djrepnik on Sep 13, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Fun climbing off the the ground.

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An awesome left facing corner with great laybacking and jamming.

Location 

SW corner of the Wart.

Protection 

Single rack to 3".


Photos of Compound W Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Route ascends left facing corner, then continues o...
BETA PHOTO: Route ascends left facing corner, then continues o...

Comments on Compound W Add Comment
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By Michael Carter
Jul 1, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun climb, good combo of laybacking/jamming for the first half, then some interesting moves on the top half.
By Brian Polagye
Jul 3, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun laybacks off the deck (more sustained than Toxic Shock), then interesting sequence above to reach chains. Cleaned of (most) blackberries, moss, and mud on 7/2/16. Deserves more traffic than it sees.
By Serge Smirnov
Nov 8, 2016

First half is challenging but clean and well protected. 2nd half is dirty and hard to protect. Where good protection ends, there is a rap anchor left of the route, which I should have used. My attempt to continue (right) resulted in an injury ledge fall. It's my fault - I knew my placement protecting the move off the ledge was crap. Moss/dirt may have been a factor - it's possible there is good protection buried somewhere. Ballnutz might have helped.

Update (2017): the 1/4-inch crack in the dihedral going right (below a bolt) has been excavated, revealing good purple BD nut placements (e.g. imgur.com/a/9NnyF ).
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Nov 9, 2016

Thanks Serge for the heads-up, but sorry to hear about the injury.
By Nate Redon
From: Seattle, WA
Nov 14, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

IIRC you do need micro or ball nuts to protect the move Serge is talking about. I think I remember my 0.1 being too big the 1st time I did it, but maybe a 000 would work? The move isn't too difficult but it is spicy.
By Douglas T
Nov 15, 2016

There is some confusion here between Compound W and the Compound W Variation. The "Variation" is actually a completely separate climb. The original Compound W climbed to a tree anchor that was above the leftward anchor. The anchor on the left is where the good climbing ends and is the closest to the original line.

The Variation was led from the ground up from below the rightward small roof section and the anchor placed decades after the original Compound W was established. Essentially, they are 2 distinct climbs. If you have fun combining them, awesome, but one would be safer climbing them as 2 separate lines.
By Serge Smirnov
Jul 26, 2017

Sounds like maybe 30' length would be more accurate for the modern intended version of Compound W ?

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