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The Old Settler
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Complete Northwest Ridge 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 5000', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b Easy Snow [details]
FA: D. Brayshaw, S. Cook, D. Wilm, June 1997
Season: spring-fall
Page Views: 46
Submitted By: Dru on Mar 19, 2009

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Shane Cook following the crux pitch on the Settler...

Gates may be closed. MORE INFO >>>


From the col at the toe of the NW ridge, which can be reached from either north or south, proceed east along the ridge crest. The first 300m or so is easy scrambling up to the summit of Peak 6600, a horn-like tower. Bypass the summit block via a traverse across ledges on a steep wall about 20m below the summit on the south side (easy class 4). Follow the crest beyond Peak 6600 (easy scrambling, Class 2-3) to a 10m discontinuity which is climbed via a corner crack on the south side (10m, 5.6). Continue following the ridge crest beyond to a distinct notch below the final steep rise to the Settler's north summit. This notch may also be reached directly from Daiphy Lake via a steep, loose gully.

There are three short (30-40m) pitches of technical climbing out of the notch: 5.6, 5.5 and 5.3. From the top of the third pitch, about 300m of class 3 and 4 scrambling reaches the Settler's north summit.


The complete NW Ridge of the Settler can be reached from either Settler Creek or Daiphy Lake.

For the Settler Creek approach, drive or walk the logging road to where it switchbacks at the headwall below Settler Lake. Cross the creek here and bushwack for 15-20 minutes to gain snow and scree leading to a major couloir. Climb this couloir (mostly 30-35 degree snow with minor sections to 40 degrees), which rises 900m to the col at the toe of the Settler's long NW ridge. (2.5-3 hrs up from road) The same col may be reached from the south side via Daiphy Lake by traversing meadows NW from the lake outlet in about 1 hour.

DESCENT: if descending to Daiphy Lake, descend either the Standard Route ramp from the north-central col, or descend the north gully from the north peak, which begins one 50m Class 4 pitch or rappel below the summit.

If descent to Settler Creek is required, retrace the ridge, rappelling the four technical pitches. The rap anchor atop the 10m 5.6 discontinuity consists of a small tree; finding an additional rock anchor is desirable. Once at the col, the 900m couloir offers a quick glissade descent.


Light rack to 3". Larger (#6-8) hexes work well. Double ropes help with some rappels.

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