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Abstract Roller Disco T 
Compassion of the Elephants T 
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Compassion of the Elephants 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Maria Cranor & Randy Vogel, November 1979
Page Views: 1,104
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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1980 something... Kris Solem climbing The Compas...


The rightmost route on the face.

Start from the top of a boulder, thin face climbing leads to the first bolt before the horizontal break. Getting established above the break proves to be problematic, and the climbing up and then over to the crux tends towards the unbelievable, being quite thin. The crux itself involves making even thinner moves to gain an undercling flake.

The long and lonely leading above is not as difficult, but is certainly thought-provoking with its sparse protection (only 2 bolts on this section).

Extend the lower clips to avoid rope-drag.


6 bolts, bolted anchors/rap station - 2 ropes needed for rappel.

Photos of Compassion of the Elephants Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: At the crux - also the 80's - notice my newly boug...
At the crux - also the 80's - notice my newly boug...

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By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Jan 13, 2003

0.75" to 1" cam possibilities under the undercling after the crux.
By maria cranor
Apr 21, 2003

I can't resist sharing my recollection of the f.a.; Randy had to browbeat me into finishing the job- after putting in the first 2 bolts, drilled on lead of course with a hand drill and rather a lot of wingeing, I was so scared I wouldn't go back for two months!
By Kristian Solem
From: Monrovia, CA
Dec 3, 2008

I think this route is a Josh Classic.

The setting, the moves, the runout...

must re-visit soon...
By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Nov 16, 2009

After clipping the second bolt, back-clean the first. It'll save you some rope drag on the easy, but runout, top half. Also, there's a bolted rap station ontop of this climb. Have your follower trail second rope, or swing way out left to another set of anchors on the face.

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