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Climb up some mossy ledges to reach a steepening finger crack. The crack eventually peters out for some cruxy moves past two bolts. After the second bolt climb up and left then a bit of a runout to reach a bottoming hand size groove.
Far right side of the Northeast Face.
Many thin through two inches.
Sep 9, 2012
Awesome face climb with crack pro. Balancy crux moves. Sustained, thoughtful climbing all 50m! Slow start up the ledges, then its on 'til the anchor!
By Jeff Scheuerell
Apr 22, 2014
Cool route for sure but it's still cleaning up...lots of hollow sounding rock that keeps your attention. A bit of a run after the second bolt. I did notice a pin scar midway. You get a good #2 after the run but with the rock quality it was hard to commit to the awkward moves above. 2 more # 2s above might have seen me through to the last bolt but no such luck, out of pro. You could even get a #3 before the last bolt but it is only ten or so inches above a great #2.
I wont argue about the rating but will say it was harder for me than Granitoligy, the long 11c to the left. With the fragile nature of the rock I am guessing holds have broken but maybe I was still just gassed after Granitology.