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Community Chest 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Aaron Rough
Page Views: 1,380
Submitted By: Toshi Takeuchi on Apr 6, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (61)
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BETA PHOTO: 1st route on the left, also the farthest bolted li...

Closes at dusk, and most parking areas are self-paid MORE INFO >>>


Leftmost, and the easiest, route on Memorial Wall. Probably 5.6 on first ascent, but lost holds since that time, and the easiest choices of holds being loose on some moves, have made a bit harder.

Taking the risk of lost holds due to crumbling and not so great fall line into account, a solid 5.8 climber is recommended to lead this route.


6 bolts to Mussy anchors.

Photos of Community Chest Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick on lead, rocking the bike helmet!
Nick on lead, rocking the bike helmet!
Rock Climbing Photo: Max TR'ing Community Chest at Auburn.  Thanks ASCA...
Max TR'ing Community Chest at Auburn. Thanks ASCA...

Comments on Community Chest Add Comment
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By Aron Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 30, 2003
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I agree that you should be a 5.8 or so lead climber to climb this route. The current crux is going to fall, and soon. I don't want to be the person climbingit when it goes... Other than that, this is decent for a 5.6, and still makes agreat warmup.

Cleaning up
By Rough
Oct 21, 2012

This route is now rebolted and ready for business as of yesterday. Thanks to my wife Brenda for belaying me on lead to re-establish the route and the ASCA for providing the bolts to replace the ones that were chopped!
By Justin Johnsen
From: Nor Cal
Jan 14, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Safely and thoroughly bolted six times, walked our friend through her first sport lead on this. New Mussy hook anchor at the top.
By Leo Ramirez
Jan 23, 2013

I saw a couple of large rocks fall from a group climbing this route on 1/18/13. This was my last and least favorite route at the quarry. It seemed harder than 5.6. Be careful with this one since the rock seemed kind of unstable.
By mattymck
From: Rocklin, Ca
Apr 20, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Felt more like 5.8, at least if you avoid using the several loose jugs, which I think is probably recommended. Still very well bolted and safe despite the choss. Make sure your belayer stands well to the right while belaying. Still a nice re-addition to The Quarry, thanks for you efforts Rough.
By Eric L
From: Roseville, CA
Feb 22, 2015
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

First bolt tightened. Snugged, then quarter turn. Take a wrench with you and always check the routes here... Lots of traffic. Was a good first lead with all the anchors. Feels higher than 5.6 - more like 5.8 at the crux due to loose and missing jugs. Watch the hold/rock on the ledge under the anchors, it's getting ready to come off.

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