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YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bill Robins, Paul Certa, April 1990
Page Views: 254
Submitted By: geoff georges on Mar 20, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Looking up the tight 10b hand crack on the last 40...


This route deserves more then the 1 star it gets in the book. The PG rating also does not apply any more than the usual loose rock at Vantage. The PG rating is for the bottom broken ragged crack, the Corner Pocket crack or the bolted Ancients could be climbed to pillar top anchor, then step right.
The description of hand crack at the top does not prepare you for the burly fingers layback without the usual face holds.
Good to save #2 Camalot for top tight hands crack.


This is the inside corner 2nd crack right of Justified Ancients


gear to 3", the lower half would take hex's well in the funky pods. save some #.4, #.5 #.75, #1 for the upper layback and #2 camalot for tight hands jam at top. A 2 bolt anchor shared with Acapulco Gold. no chain for rapping. With a long cord-o-let you can bring the anchor over the edge for TR.

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By Jplotz
From: Wenatchee, WA
Jan 18, 2015

This route definitely deserves more stars! The last 40' of this route is the best bit of 5.10 crack climbing at the KP that is tragically too short. Steph Abegg's photo makes it almost look like a Trout Creek crack.

I love combining this crack finish with the Justifies Ancients bolted route below it. Highly recommended.
By Aaron Nash
From: North Bend, WA
May 1, 2017

Fun crack worth doing! No anchor at the top, but you can use the anchor for AG or Corner Pockets (new chains) to lower off of. Put a long sling on your last piece; pretty draggy otherwise.

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