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g. V3 - Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Absurdland T 
Alley Oop T 
Badfinger T 
Balrog T 
Beyond the Fringe T 
Blunderbus T,TR 
Bombs Away Dream Baby T 
Bullfrog T 
Cakewalk T 
Cheap Thrills T 
City Streets T 
Commando Rave T 
Country Roads T 
Dat-Mantel T 
Dis-Mantel T 
Dry Heaves T 
Faithful Journey T 
Galactic Hitchhikers T 
Gory Thumb T 
J'accuse T 
Middle Earth T 
Never Never Land T 
Never Say Never T,TR 
Nevermore T 
On Any Monday T 
Raunchy T 
Red's Ruin T 
Sente T 
Set my bow in the cloud T 
Snake T 
Snowpatch T 
Talus of Powder T 
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 
Triangle T 
Turdland T 
V-3 T 
Wild Horses T 
Wisecrack T 
Wonderland T 
Yenta TR 

Commando Rave 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy and John Hudson, 1963
Page Views: 1,560
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Andy on Commando Rave

Description 

Begin fifty feet left of Balrog. Head up a weakness (same start as Country Roads, which continues through the roof via a crack), then traverse right for 30 feet and very little gear to another weakness in the roof. Past the roof here and up to an anchor.

Protection 

Standard rack.


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By JoeLeiper
Feb 19, 2008

Went up on this September '77. Made mistake Blue Book cautioned against: "Despite bravado suggested by name, it's wise to think this through before attacking." I bolted over first roof and onto the face...onto the face...no hand holds. "Eyyagghhh!" 15-footer onto ancient pin. Ass dangling just above an angular boulder. "Trusty rusty" indeed. I haven't been back.
By Tim Schafstall
Oct 2, 2008

There really is not much to this climb, but the crux is about 5 moves and really fun. There is a short vertical section to a long, easy, unprotected traverse, then the fun begins.
By Kalil Oldham
From: Brooklyn, NY
Sep 15, 2013

Committing through the crux. 75 or 80 feet at most.
By Logan Schiff
From: Brooklyn, NY
Nov 14, 2016

Very fun single pitch that is getting a lot more traffic now that the Gunks app gives it 3 stars. Pin looks pretty good, you then make one reachy pumpy move and can slam in a good mid-size cam before safely pulling over/around the roof, which will avoid the 15 footer Joel experienced in 77.

Last move while in sight of the chains is weird and felt like the crux to me but the cam is at your waist.