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Coming Full Circle
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.3 from 4
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Routes in Santaqueen Wall
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Bring a Friend S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Coming Full Circle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Santaqueen Prom Queen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | James Garrett and Dave Anderson, early 90s |
| Page Views: | 1,038 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | James Garrett on Jun 6, 2009 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Mt. Nebo Wilderness on south side of Santaquin Canyon.
Details
The Mount Nebo Wilderness boundary parallels approximately 100-200 yards south of the Santaquin Canyon road from the mouth of the canyon to Tinney Flat Campground. Wilderness rules blm.gov/wo/st/en/info/regul… apply within the wilderness area (nothing mechanized or motorized allowed, including power drills).
Description
Named by Dave as it was the first rap bolted sport climb either of us had ever done. It was also the first route on this wall as far as I remember.
I went back years later and found the single carabiner I had left through the slings almost worn paper thin from the local Santaquin high school crowd who said they top roped it all the time and it was the only moderate climb in the canyon they had found that they enjoyed doing so much.
This has almost become polished it gets climbed so much. I have since replaced the anchors with chain. I also added a bolt at that time as we had used a micro cam for protection and none of the locals had anything other than QDs.
Pitch #1: An awkward and thin slightly overhanging start to the first bolt impedes initial progress. Continue up better holds and pockets to a big dish like area and scramble to the ledge and two-bolt belay. 5.10a, 25m.
Rappel the route.
I went back years later and found the single carabiner I had left through the slings almost worn paper thin from the local Santaquin high school crowd who said they top roped it all the time and it was the only moderate climb in the canyon they had found that they enjoyed doing so much.
This has almost become polished it gets climbed so much. I have since replaced the anchors with chain. I also added a bolt at that time as we had used a micro cam for protection and none of the locals had anything other than QDs.
Pitch #1: An awkward and thin slightly overhanging start to the first bolt impedes initial progress. Continue up better holds and pockets to a big dish like area and scramble to the ledge and two-bolt belay. 5.10a, 25m.
Rappel the route.
Location
Drive to the one lane bridge just past the picnic table area. 0.1 mile up canyon from the bridge, a parking turn out is available and the climbs are just to the left on the crag. A trail has formed over the road birm to the base of the crag. This route is on the far left side of this most accessible crag. Other routes have sprouted up to the right.
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