|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA:||Randy Leavitt et al 1980|
|Submitted By:||AJ on Jan 1, 2002|
|Comments on Comfortably Numb||Add Comment|
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By Russ Walling
Nov 24, 2007
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nice rig. The face start can be tricky if you start anywhere left of the roof crack. Use the obvious holds and come in from the right to get under the roof. Getting established in the crack is the crux. Probably the hardest 4 feet of climbing you will do all month.
To set a top rope, you will need a long extendo runner, like 30 ft or so to take advantage of the good pro. Set two 1" cams in a low horizontal directly behind the route crack and then sling the horn formed by the actual crack and the summit block. You can also place a #5 and #6 Wild Country cam in the wide crack that is off to skiers left to keep your toprope from going into the route crack and backing up your quasi marginal anchor described above.
Here is a short Slide Show of our day out at the route:
By Richard Shore
Dec 10, 2012
|Wanted to give this one a go last weekend, but was a bit dismayed at the sight of splattered blood EVERYWHERE at the base of the route. Looks like a man (or woman) was recently eaten alive by this OW..|