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Comfortable Harness Suggestions
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Jun 22, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Baldy Chutes
So for awhile I have been using the Mammut Ophir and yesterday after three pitches of hanging belay I have noticeable soreness right above my hips and it was all in all not a great experience. I was wondering if anyone could throw some harness suggestions my way for a super comfortable, light, good gear loop position and an all around good harness? I read through this article but was hoping someone could give me some personal experience on these or offer other harnesses that they like. Thanks for the input.


climbing.com/gear/review-our-t...
BrokenChairs
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Feb 21, 2015
252 points
Jun 22, 2016
The last gen momentum actually caused bruises at my pelvic bone after a long day of semi hanging belays. Different harnesses work better for different people, you have to really get in a shop and hang in them.

I got a deal on one of the dead bird harnesses. It's been comfortable to hang in, but is flexible enough to disappear while free climbing.
Nick Drake
From Newcastle, WA
Joined Jan 20, 2015
393 points
Jun 22, 2016
a few things to consider in harnesses. They have basically been made in two ways for years. A momentum and most economy harnesses are made using a piece of webbing as the support and safety, then it is padded to try to make it more comfortable. The Petzl $70 and up, as well as the new Solution harness from BD, use a frame type system. This runs on the top and bottom of the waist and legs to try and "spread" out the support. The high end BD harnesses, the Arcteryx harnesses and the new high end Petzl all use some sort of "spread out" webbing or full frame where the entire waist belt and legs are providing support. Crazy comfort, usually lighter and more packable but more expensive materials and production costs. Basically, you get what you pay for. bearded sam
Joined Apr 27, 2011
105 points
Jun 22, 2016
bearded sam wrote:
a few things to consider in harnesses. They have basically been made in two ways for years. A momentum and most economy harnesses are made using a piece of webbing as the support and safety, then it is padded to try to make it more comfortable. The Petzl $70 and up, as well as the new Solution harness from BD, use a frame type system. This runs on the top and bottom of the waist and legs to try and "spread" out the support. The high end BD harnesses, the Arcteryx harnesses and the new high end Petzl all use some sort of "spread out" webbing or full frame where the entire waist belt and legs are providing support. Crazy comfort, usually lighter and more packable but more expensive materials and production costs. Basically, you get what you pay for.


I second the BD Solution harness. I haven't worn it, but I have a very similar Arc'teryx harness. At the last Outdoor Retailer show I noticed that most companies are moving to that same thin padding, but wide support style. It is very comfortable. I have hung in the Arc'teryx harness for hours on aid climbing hanging belays. The only caveat there is the BD Solution doesn't have rear gear loops, just the standard 2 on each side and I really like having the rear loops for trad and aid climbing. If you're just sport climbing the rear loops aren't all that needed.
Ryan Hamilton
From Orem
Joined Aug 11, 2011
34 points
Jun 22, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Goofin on the Frogs Head Arch before I rap off.
Misty Mountain Cadillac all the way. Boots Ylectric
From Chicago IL
Joined Apr 11, 2012
165 points
Jun 22, 2016
BD Solution is very light and comfortable but I hate the gear loops. Widely available (e.g. at REI) so you can try it on and see if it suits you. Noah Yetter
From Lakewood, CO
Joined Jul 13, 2015
121 points
Jun 22, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: yukon
One that fits. I had similar soreness in a MM Cadillac but the Ophir doesn't hurt me. It's all about what fits your body best. Seth Jones
Joined Feb 17, 2015
39 points
Jun 22, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Top half of Melifluous
Misty Mountain Turbo or Misty Mountain Cadillac. Turbo is my favorite all arounder, but I grab the Cadillac when I know I'll be in several hanging belays all day. Sam Stephens
Joined Jan 20, 2010
999 points
Jun 22, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying 2nd (or was it 3rd? 4th?) on Turk's Head ...
Ha...I was wondering how far this thread would get before the Misty was brought up. Ted Pinson
From Chicago, IL
Joined Jul 11, 2014
183 points
Jun 22, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: After a very very damp and cold evening climbing o...
MY black diamond chaos is pretty good, a tad on the stiffer side and could do with a single extra gear loop on the back but apart from that it's pretty damn good. that guy named seb
Joined Oct 24, 2015
182 points
Jun 22, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Halfway up Meadow Mountain
Both the Black Diamond Chaos and Arcteryx AR-395 are incredibly comfortable. I opted for the Arcteryx because I prefer the huge gear loops. At $160, it's a little pricey, but look for deals online and you can find one for ~$125 Hunter McPherson
From Denver, CO
Joined Jul 7, 2015
17 points
Jun 23, 2016
Boots Ylectric wrote:
Misty Mountain Cadillac all the way.


Very comfortable, but heavy and (if you climb in high temp areas) hot.

Curt
Curt Shannon
Joined Jun 3, 2006
21 points
Jun 23, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: profile pic
I can concur that the AR-395 is a good harness, and comfy for it's packability. I also have an even more comfy BD Big Gun that I use for general cragging and things with short approaches. Ben Stabley
From Portland, OR
Joined Sep 7, 2014
140 points
Jun 23, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: photo by Forest Woodward
I just recently used the Cassin Warden harness, and I think it's a good option to consider. It's marketed as a "big wall" harness, with 6 gear loops and 2 extra attachment points on the swami for daisy chains. I found that it's definitely light and comfortable enough for a day of multi-pitch free climbing, and makes hanging belays painless.

I was using it for climbing on El Cap, mostly in one day pushes, and I definitely appreciated the plush swami for all the up and down of aiding and jugging.

Just a note on sizing: they run big. I normally wear medium (~31" waist), but I'm in the small warden and I still need to tighten it all the way.

Here's a review (not mine) with a little video:
blog.weighmyrack.com/cassin-ca...

-Scott
Scott Bennett
Joined Jan 9, 2008
1,361 points
Jun 23, 2016
Scott Bennett wrote:
I just recently used the Cassin Warden harness, and I think it's a good option to consider. It's marketed as a "big wall" harness, with 6 gear loops and 2 extra attachment points on the swami for daisy chains. I found that it's definitely light and comfortable enough for a day of multi-pitch free climbing, and makes hanging belays painless. I was using it for climbing on El Cap, mostly in one day pushes, and I definitely appreciated the plush swami for all the up and down of aiding and jugging. Just a note on sizing: they run big. I normally wear medium (~31" waist), but I'm in the small warden and I still need to tighten it all the way. Here's a review (not mine) with a little video: blog.weighmyrack.com/cassin-ca... -Scott

+1 on the Cassin Warden and the Arc'teryx AR-395. Both great harnesses.
Ryan Hamilton
From Orem
Joined Aug 11, 2011
34 points
Jun 23, 2016
Another vote for the Misty! Cameron Sumpter
From Lander, WY
Joined Aug 1, 2010
84 points
Jun 23, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Me at the good rest on Doggie Do
+1 for Cassin Warden. Like mentioned above, it is marketed as a big wall free climbing harness....I have a particularly bad back and it makes hanging belays quite pleasant.

I also wear the Edelrid Orion, another great harness with a broad hip belt, light weight, and mega comfy. The leg loop attachment at the leg loop itself didn't feel burly enough for me to be confident in heavy use in trad scenarios, so I primarily use it as a sport harness.
Weston L
From Summerlin, NV
Joined Mar 14, 2010
890 points
Jun 23, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Russ Just off the block
another +1 for misty Danger-Russ Gordon
From Tempe, AZ
Joined Nov 30, 2011
423 points
Jun 25, 2016
Misty Cadillac quick adjust is the way to go!!! I could hang in in this thing all day.


Rock Climbing Photo: caddy
caddy
Max Rausch
From Monterey, California
Joined Jul 21, 2014
130 points
Jun 25, 2016
Yates Shield. I bought my first one in 1996 and bought my 4th one in 2014. Best comfort hands down jc5462
Joined Dec 15, 2007
0 points
Jun 26, 2016
I use the Edelrid Orion. The webbing tape spreads out over the hip belt so you are more comfortable, and it has speed holes Flanders.
Rock Climbing Photo: Speed holes flanders!
Speed holes flanders!
Rando Calrissian
Joined Apr 23, 2016
5 points
Jun 26, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: new selfie
Max Rausch wrote:
Misty Cadillac quick adjust is the way to go!!! I could hang in in this thing all day.



Just bought another Cadillac in Large, could really use the Medium, if anybody in the Denver area is looking for a discount on a very lightly used Cadillac (used 3 times). $100 sound like a decent price?
Ralph Kolva
From Evergreen, CO
Joined Jun 5, 2006
271 points
Jun 26, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Me
Nick Drake wrote:
The last gen momentum actually caused bruises at my pelvic bone after a long day of semi hanging belays. Different harnesses work better for different people, you have to really get in a shop and hang in them.

+1
JK-
From SLC
Joined Nov 3, 2012
21 points


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