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Chalten Massif
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YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 13 pitches, 1320', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b Easy Snow [details]
FA: José Luis Fonrouge and Carlos “Pampero” Comesaña (ARG)
Season: Austral Summer
Page Views: 700
Submitted By: Priti Wright on Feb 22, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Climbs the right NW ridge


This route is a perfect choice for a first climb in the area. The route climbs a steep snowfield (40˚/50˚) at the base of the north face, to a ledge that gives access to the buttress. Easy terrain following the crest (4/5) leads to a steep 25 meter long dihedral which is the crux (6b+ or A1), after which a short traverse (15 meters) to the left leads to an easy dihedral (40 meters, 5+) which finishes at the base of the summit ridge. A couple of more pitches on the left, west side of the ridge (3 and 4, with one short bit of 5) lead to the summit snowfield (30˚), which late in the season can be avoided by climbing easy rock on its right side. Normally boots and crampons are necessary to reach the base of the route and often they can be needed to climb the last 70 meters to the summit.


Approach Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra, then up the left side of the glacier, onto a talus field, and finally across a snowfield (45˚) to the right. One and a half hours from Piedra Negra.


Doubles to #1, one each to #3, stoppers
Some fixed pitons in place, rappel stations on route. Descend the route or (35 meter raps) or optionally descend Amy.

Photos of Comesaña-Fonrouge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The route
BETA PHOTO: The route
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex, somewhere after pitch 2--the ridge falling b...
Alex, somewhere after pitch 2--the ridge falling b...

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