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Come On Eileen 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: BBQ
Season: When there is no white stuff on the ground.
Page Views: 327
Submitted By: BBQ on Jun 25, 2014

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Come On Eileen, 5.10a. Bradyism Wall. Big Picture ...

It's a pop song (and maybe a dirty movie) from the eighties! 

It's a Bradyism! Starts steep on big holds. And make sure you begin the route while standing on the trail (and not the blocky rock) you cheating bastards! Climbers that come to the Bradyism Wall find good starting holds and cheating stones are not needed.

After the initial, pumpy pockets (and big starting crimps) you will cum across a cool move at the second bolt which involves a layback with a big reach to a huge pocket. After that make a slight traverse to the left on secure feet and interesting hands. Get yourself set up and ready to rock...cum to a decision about how you want to attack the problem...but don't worry, the good holds are coming.

From the ledge climb some good pockets and begin your unexpected journey from fabulous feature to fabulous feature. The cool moves and sick holds just keep cuming and coming and cumming. Huck for a huge jug and ride a rail that traverses right. Fondle a flake. Reach for cool, incut crimps and then blaze through a battlefield of big, honking holds before you come to a stop. This midroute section has some interesting movement that might make you pause to think about what you're doing before you commit to it.

Most moves involve big reaches to big holds and just as the pump sets in you'll get a nice rest (on bucket holds) under a black bulge with two more bolts of sick, secure (and very incut) crimps. Crank yourself on through the black bulge to mondolicious finishing buckets and clip the chains with a satisfying finish and a happy ending.

Come on over and try it out! Probably not the best route on the wall but definitely a good climb for climbers wanting to break into the grade.

Location 

Second Bradyism from the left.

Protection 

Bring a dozen quick draws and a few Dexy's Midnight Runners. Sports Climbing Anchors. If you are young, dumb and full of cum it is recommended that you stick clip that first bolt on every route in Spearfish Canyon.


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