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Comatose Area
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L to R R to L Alpha
Animal Cracker T 
Comatose T 
Conception T,S 
Cookie Time in Budapest T 
Egg Hunt T 
Family Feud T,S 
Gingerbread Man T 
Lost Face T,S 
Name Unknown T,S 
Preying Mantis T 
Pull the Plug S 
Resurrection T 
Resurrection Ramp T 
Rusty Redneck T,S 
That's the Way the Cookie Crumbles T 
Trick or Feet T,S 
unknown S 
Unknown 2 T,TR 
Waltzing Matilda T 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jeff Burton and Matt Hodges
Season: Fall - Spring
Page Views: 7,508
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Mar 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (101)
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Brian S. leading comatose.


Comatose is the classic climb is this area. The climb follows an arching and widening crack, using some jams and liebacks, until you step onto the face at a notch. Cruise the face climbing section to the anchors


You can miss this crack...


Standard NC rack and a 4 inch piece. Long slings. Rap anchors at the top of the climb. 60 m rope will get you to the ground with stretch (barely)...a 70 m is better.

Photos of Comatose Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: great placement
great placement
Rock Climbing Photo: Comatose
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun crux! Don't exit early
BETA PHOTO: Fun crux! Don't exit early
Rock Climbing Photo: Comatose, 5.8, Rumbling Bald, NC follows the archi...
Comatose, 5.8, Rumbling Bald, NC follows the archi...

Comments on Comatose Add Comment
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By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
Mar 10, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great route! The start is a little strenuous, but the gear is great. Double ropes are a good option, and maybe even necessary -- even with rope stretch, 60m wasn't enough for me to get to the ground from the anchors (though I guess if I'd done the route right, I might have had more rope left over).

If you want to add a little spice to your lead, instead of moving over to the face where the crack widens out, continue up to the apex of the crack and pull the roof into a right-facing dihedral (I did this by mistake).
By scoTt Millbern
From: Langenfeld, Germany
May 6, 2008

I'll agree with saxfiend. Go up to the top of the crack. A lot more fun.

I though it was a little run out after getting away from the crack, but on very easy ground
Dec 13, 2011

Just so you know - prepare for a healthy stretch of runout (on easy ground) after you step onto the face. Continuing to the apex of the crack and pulling the bulge reduces the runout but not entirely.
By John Lombardi
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 15, 2014


A green C3 will protect pulling the roof.
By Jonathan Dull
From: Boone, NC
May 9, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Comatose reminds me of a classic Yosemite layback, a great line with awesome pro! A #4 Camalot is definitely mandatory to keep things safe moving through the wide section, also bring a .3 Camalot for the runout up top.
By b.t.miller
From: Charlotte, NC
Dec 12, 2014
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

as noted by others- this is a great line that is extremely well protected. the #4 is definitely nice to have as the crack widens. we protected the notch/rooflet with a BD 0.2(yellow). Pink tricam works very well on the face above the notch.
By Russ Keane
Nov 18, 2015

Really fun, smooth climbing. A perfect 5.8 on beautiful black grippy rock. The roof pull on lead was intimidating at first, but not too scary in the end result. It rewards you for sticking with it!
By Alan Nehemy
Nov 1, 2016

Great climb. Going over the roof is definitely scary, but it was fine. I worried about the 60m rope, but needlessly. If it gets you a couple of feet of the ground, that counts to me as getting me all the way to the ground, so I wouldn't worry about it. That was on a 9.8 rope, I think, so on thinner ropes, you may even get all the way to the ground. I'm 185lb, so that also needs to be taken into consideration regarding the stretch. With NO load, the 60m doubled rope with knots on both ends was perhaps 4-5 feet off the floor, but there are very good footing and safe down climbing from there. Lastly, the rope length I'm referring to is considering that the second climber, myself, went up clearing gear, so both ends of the rope are coming straight down from the anchors. If you plan on belaying the lead before ascending, 60m is definitely not enough.
By JackWeaver
From: Greenville, south Carolina
Mar 13, 2017

I liked the climb, but the run out after pulling onto the face was too long for me. It was easy climbing, but not worth the risk in my opinion.

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