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Columbus Day in America T 
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Leaning Face (AKA Backscratcher), The T,S 
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Columbus Day in America 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 244
Submitted By: George Bracksieck on Dec 10, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Columbus climbs up to and over the left side of th...

Description 

Ever notice how some climbers act as if they've discovered America when they do first ascents? Or think that they are doing first ascents, because they found some lichens on the rocks?

This route may be an example of that. I think that, on Oct. 12, 2015, my wife and I did the first ascent of this pile, 523 years to the day after Columbus "discovered" America. Of course, we know that people had already been living in the Americas for more than 20,000 years, so what's the big deal?

Here's the big deal: Drew Spaulding didn't claim this route; therefore it must be virgin. How could he have not noticed it? It is so memorable, I forgot about it for over a year, before posting it today.

Location 

Up and left of the start of the Orange Corner, please find the next obvious crack system. This crack system is obvious on the left side of Leaning Wall, as seen in the beta photo on the LW page.

Protection 

SR. At the top, I built an anchor from gear. After my wife cleaned the pitch, I lowered her. I rapped from the anchors atop Orange Corner, which we had previously climbed.


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By Drew Spaulding
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 3, 2017

Are you saying you are upset with me, George?
By George Bracksieck
Mar 4, 2017

Hi Drew —

I'm not upset. I'm just poking fun at you. I'm also satirizing the mindset that many have displayed over the decades, when claiming first ascents.

You have a keen eye for finding previously unclimbed rock. For example, you established almost all of the routes on this rock.

However, I can think of one route that might have SEEMED like unclimbed rock. You claimed an FA on a route on the Fourth Elephant Buttress in Bocan. I commented that it is an old route that had been published in guidebooks and that even I had done before. You replied that it is, in so many words, a new variation — which may be true. No big deal.

I've enjoyed climbing many routes that you've established — on this rock, at the Weston Wall, and at Upper Dream Canyon. Keep up the good work!

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