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Routes in Animal Cracker Rock
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Animal Cracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Assassin, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Columbine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m) |
| FA: | T. Bubb, J. Meir, 6/16 (?) |
| Page Views: | 998 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jun 20, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
This is a new line on Animal Cracker that showed no sign of passage and we didn't leave much evidence of our ascent either. It's possible that it is an undocumented climb instead of an true first ascent. In any case, this is a good route and deserves some mention and attention.
Start in the clean corner atop the huge boulder left of the route 'The Assassin.' Climb a few features to get up into the crack, place gear and head on up in the corner. Although it gets wide near the top, a few placements are available in the back of the crack, and the climbing quickly eases off the 5.9 grade. Finish up the corner into a chucky 2-2.5" (primarily) crack system that looks steeper from the ground... but holds abound. The climbing here is no harder than 5.8, and mostly 5.7 or below. Ride that to a gear belay on the summit, or just below on one of several shelves, according to what gear you have to set a belay with and what you see.
Bright red 'Western Columbine' flowers were everywhere up there in mid-June.
Start in the clean corner atop the huge boulder left of the route 'The Assassin.' Climb a few features to get up into the crack, place gear and head on up in the corner. Although it gets wide near the top, a few placements are available in the back of the crack, and the climbing quickly eases off the 5.9 grade. Finish up the corner into a chucky 2-2.5" (primarily) crack system that looks steeper from the ground... but holds abound. The climbing here is no harder than 5.8, and mostly 5.7 or below. Ride that to a gear belay on the summit, or just below on one of several shelves, according to what gear you have to set a belay with and what you see.
Bright red 'Western Columbine' flowers were everywhere up there in mid-June.
Location
Look up and left from Animal Cracker. There is a stack of Boulders below the arete to the left. This is below and left of a flake system that reaches the corner that reaches the handcrack. The top crack can be seen in the Bingham Guide between Routes 'A' and 'B', but is not shown as a route.
Protection
While the FA was done with nothing over 3.5", it is noted that there were very significant runouts. A rack including at least to #4 Camalot, or perhaps even a single larger piece is recommended. A few 2' slings will help keep the rope in line despite a deep placement or two. The top crack takes 2" gear, +/-.
There are many options for a gear belay up top.
Scramble off to the left (easier, but then nasty trail) or right (long, more involved route finding to keep it 5.4), but then easy trail to the base.
There are many options for a gear belay up top.
Scramble off to the left (easier, but then nasty trail) or right (long, more involved route finding to keep it 5.4), but then easy trail to the base.
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