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3. The Mid Section
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bruin T 
building steam with a grain of salt T 
Coloring Book T 
Dead Easy T 
DIVIDING LINE for MID-SECTION T 
Face Dances  T 
Fifty Center T 
L' Anniversaire T 
Littoral Zone, The T 
Livin' Easy T 
Pencilneck Geek T 
Rhino Skin T 
Rubberneck T 
Scramble to "Launch Ledge" T 
True Colors T 
Unknown next to L'Anniversaire T 

Coloring Book 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Kurt & Karen Winkler Aug 1984
Page Views: 286
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Sep 2, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Telephoto of Coloring Book (climber at left is at ...

Description 

See photo of slab posted to Face Dances.

A MUCH nicer climb than at first appearance: FIRST, it's pretty well protected. SECOND, the route doesn't touch the ugly moss at the flake. THIRD, nor does it get involved with the vegetation in the corner (except, perhaps, in moving a bit of it around to get a gear placement.) Pretty close to a 4-star climb now that bolts have replaced the very marginal gear placements at the belay !


P1- Climb up to a right-leaning flake; climb along the flake (gear) until before the moss, then over the flake and up (5.7) the white rock above. Pass over two ledges (possible to belay on gear),and then very pleasant climbing on featured white rock, to the base of the right-facing corner. Protect in the corner, but climb 2-3 feet right of the actual corner (5.6-5.7), [Var] thus avoiding the vegetation, and belay it its top [2 x 3/8" bolts]. 165+/- ft 5.7

Variation: At the bottom of the corner, step left and climb the arête of the corner to the belay. Save a "Purple (#0.5) Camalot" for the last placement. 5.8+ (+/-?)R


P2- The FA went up to the trees at the top of the slab, but most climbers will probably want to climb leftwards and up (5.3, no pro) to the Face Dances double bolt rap anchor. Here, rap with 2 ropes down Face Dances.

Location 

Route is located in the left side of the Mid-Section. From where the climber's path meets the cliff at the junction of the Mid Section & Perfect Wave Slab, walk slightly up, then left 100-125 ft then down on a path to the 'toe' area, scramble easily along the base, and then up to the left 50-75 ft [crossing over the main the watercourse, usually dry] to a gently sloping slabby area of dark rock.
The key feature of Coloring Book is the 40 ft high, right-facing corner about 120 ft up. Some vines usually grow in the bottom of the corner.

Protection 

Small to medium nuts/cams for the initial flake, optional 5-6mm cord to tie-off a natural thread, and 0.5-1.0 sized cams for the top corner, save a #2(Gold) or #3(blue) Camalot-sized piece for the exit move from the corner. A double bolt anchor now replaces the very marginal placements at the belay, but is presently not set up as a rap anchor.


Photos of Coloring Book Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Coloring Book: Looking up at the corner from mid-w...
BETA PHOTO: Coloring Book: Looking up at the corner from mid-w...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Flake on P1 of Coloring Book - it's nicer than...
BETA PHOTO: The Flake on P1 of Coloring Book - it's nicer than...
Rock Climbing Photo: RW at the belay on Coloring Book
BETA PHOTO: RW at the belay on Coloring Book
Rock Climbing Photo: The 40 ft Corner of Coloring Book from near the to...
BETA PHOTO: The 40 ft Corner of Coloring Book from near the to...

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