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2009/2010 Colorado Ice Conditions
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Nov 8, 2009
hoosier pass/lincoln falls is in (just the bowling alley is in fat. Curtain formation to climbers right of bowling alley is mixed) clay meier
Joined Dec 24, 2008
340 points
Nov 8, 2009
Went down to Lake City today. Sherman was not in. Some stuff starting to form up in Henson creek. Still searching for good ice between elk seasons. LB Mullin Jr.
From Gunnison, CO
Joined Jan 6, 2009
15 points
Nov 9, 2009
Pictures of + words on Notchtop Conditions from Saturday
zclipped.com/?p=78
Jason Killgore
From boulder, co
Joined Sep 18, 2008
100 points
Nov 9, 2009
Jason,

Great stuff. One of a kind adventure. Brings back fond memories of the route and that unique area of RMNP.
Joseph Crotty
From Broomfield, CO
Joined Nov 23, 2002
695 points
Nov 9, 2009
Climbed lower Ingram Falls in Telluride a couple of days ago. Pretty sun rotted. Ames is close, but it has been 50+ degrees and is supposed to stay that way for the next 4 or so days. More water for the ice if it stays cold. Here is a pic of upper Ingram.

Jon

Rock Climbing Photo: Ingram Falls 11/1/09
Ingram Falls 11/1/09
Jon Miller on the WS
Joined Feb 20, 2008
0 points
Nov 9, 2009
I had a great time yesterday on this:
mountainproject.com/v/colorado...

It seemed to be sublimating a little towards the top, but should still be good next weekend.
Ben Collett
Joined Mar 15, 2006
1,205 points
Nov 11, 2009
Went up Total Abandon in Pikes Peak yesterday with some great weather. 1st pitch was a little thin with hollow ice. 2nd pitch had just enough ice and was well protected with stubbies. Last pitch was the requisite snow slog. Get up there while it lasts. Photos courtesy of Pete.
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st pitch of Total Abandon
1st pitch of Total Abandon

Rock Climbing Photo: looking down on the first pitch of Total Abandon
looking down on the first pitch of Total Abandon

Rock Climbing Photo: Top of Total Abandon courtesy of Pete
Top of Total Abandon courtesy of Pete
Kellen Sams
Joined Oct 9, 2008
0 points
Nov 11, 2009
I drove the I-70 corridor today.

Glenwood Canyon:

Glenwood Falls, Wet rock, Hidden Falls, Wet rock.

Vail:

Pumphouse, thin, you can see the rock under the ice.

Designator, nothing, Fang, nothing, Spiral, maybe climable......

Some ice in Officers Gulch,

All viewed from I-70.....
Jim Amidon
Joined Jun 12, 2001
475 points
Nov 12, 2009
Rock Climbing Photo: Hot Doggie and New Beginnings(?) on 11/11/09
Hot Doggie and New Beginnings(?) on 11/11/09


Hot Doggie is close to touching, Grace Falls is in and looks steep, New Beginnings(?) looks good as does Guides Wall. Notchtop is still in but requires some care on P1 to preserve the ice; the snow above, below, and on the route merits careful evaluation.

Hey Jack, looks like the Pike Road is open again! Blind Assumption???
Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
155 points
Nov 12, 2009
Thanks all for the good updates.
Jack, I've been watching the Sword like a hawk and there isn't a lick of ice on it. I was certain that it would start forming after the Halloween storm, bunch of snow, warm days, cold nights, etc.
Nothin doin.
We went up to climb the North Star route on Hoosier last week. The upper pitch had some ice on it, but the first pitch was a wet spot. Maybe something has formed up there.
Mike Soucy
From Longmont, CO
Joined May 1, 2006
18 points
Nov 13, 2009
For those who are interested.........

Just arrived in Boulder from an enjoyable afternoon climbing at Mt. Lincoln.........10/13/09

Current conditions are not good..........

At Lincoln only the Scottish Gully or "Bowling Alley" is in shape. The Middle and Upper curtains are almost completely dry. This makes it great for drytooling 'cause usually there is ice all over the rock but bad otherwise...........There is a short WI4 over to the left but otherwise, nothing.

Nothing in Officer's Gulch but the Needle, which is fully formed but really wet. Silver Plume is just a long, wet slide..........

It's been too warm for much to form and conditions are worse today than one week ago.............
jack roberts
Joined Oct 30, 2002
0 points
Nov 13, 2009
It is a similar story in Telluride. All the warm weather has set everything back. It is currently dumping snow, so we at least have some good skiing right now. Hopefully it will continue to cool down so everything can come in.
Jon
Jon Miller on the WS
Joined Feb 20, 2008
0 points
Nov 13, 2009
Went up Three Tiers on Officer's Gulch today. The ice on the two lower cruxes wasn't "fat" but it certainly wasn't skinny, the third was thin so I didn't go for it in interest of not knocking it down. The approach and walk off was slippery.
I'm off through Sunday if anyone wants to get out. It's puking snow right now, which could change conditions greatly, especially up high in O.G. with slide danger and all. There's a lot of wind slab/sun crust/melt freeze up there. Let me know though.

Rock Climbing Photo: Three Tiers condition 11/13/09
Three Tiers condition 11/13/09
Drew Gibson
From Frisco, CO
Joined Oct 8, 2006
0 points
Nov 18, 2009
For those interested in Wolf Creek ice conditions.

I just got back from two days of awesome skiing at WC but after a through tour of ice sites I didn't find even one completely formed route. Treasure Falls come the closest to being in shape and even that was just 35% formed. There is a lot of snow on the rock and I thought that maybe some of it would melt, freeze and creat some interesting mixed climbing but it never got cold enough at night so the snow just melted away. I didn't come back via Creede or Lake City but a friend of mine did a three pitch WI3 climb in Gothic that looks in fine condition. Let's hope there is more ice to climb around Thanksgiving time............

Jack
jack roberts
Joined Oct 30, 2002
0 points
Nov 18, 2009
anyone seen the longs peak cirque this week after the new snow? Avi conditions any less? SAL
From broomdigiddy
Joined Mar 23, 2007
340 points
Nov 18, 2009
Climbed Blind Assumption on the 11th (Veterans Day) with Ken Trout (saw your tracks up TA Kellen). Seemed like it was in good shape, nice mixed climbing that is hard to rate. Get it while you can...here are a few photos.

s173.photobucket.com/albums/w4...?
gravityneverrests
From Lakewood, CO
Joined Jun 27, 2008
0 points
Nov 19, 2009
I'm going to skin up Radiobeacon Mountain tomorrow from the E. Portal. Is there any ice in at Moffat yet?

Would love to find a partner to ski into Mt. Craig and climb the ice this year if anyone is interested, when conditions allow.
Legs Magillicutty
From Littleton
Joined May 28, 2002
395 points
Nov 19, 2009
In the Telluride area - Bear Creek is IN, Ingram Falls Right is IN. The main fang on Ingram is about half way, so it may break our hearts, or it may come in. The Ice Hose and Bridal Veil are there, but I'd give them a little more time personally. Jon Miller on the WS
Joined Feb 20, 2008
0 points
Nov 19, 2009
Everybody relax, ice is coming. Just realx and wait a couple weeks. Go dry-tooling if you need to use your tools, or better yet...go rock climbing, dammit! And, it's thanksgiving week and everything that is remotely climbable will have 50 ColoRADoan's queing up to doink their brand new $300 tools. And the rest will be in Indian Creek getting rad, so take my advice and eat well, catch up with friends and family, watch some football even if you don't like it - then next time at the bar you can talk to the guy or gal next to you (perhaps they aren't climbers) about something they might actually be interested in. Remember that once spring comes we'll all be dying to stop ice climbing, so if you just start a couple weeks later you can postpone your inevitable EXTREME boredom that is implicit in climbing ice. Bryan Gilmore
From New England
Joined Nov 7, 2005
870 points
Nov 19, 2009
Mount Lincoln has improved alot in the last week. We went there today and played. More melting and more freezing. The Upper Falls area on the left is filling out and also a little on the right where there is usually mixed climbing. The main falls is still a ways from forming. The Lower Falls area is still dry.

There are many short steep areas that work well for drills and just goofing around on.

The Needle in Officer's Gulch has grown and the avi danger seems low.

More info in a day or two.
jack roberts
Joined Oct 30, 2002
0 points
Nov 20, 2009
My partner and I went up to Lincoln Falls today to see how it was and get our first Ice day of the season in. There is enough there to get your pump on if it is your first day but only if that is the case. If you are in nead of a shower then i would highly recomend it everything is very wet. The curtain on the upper right fell down while we were nearing the end of the approach. I guess the weight and morning sun caused it to pop at least it wasnt a busy weekend day when more people would be around. Jack will have to revise his time estimates for it coming in or will it even come in now? Have fun finding good swinging. Sounds like Canada is coming in nicely. Matt Shepard
From Broomfield, CO
Joined Jul 19, 2006
15 points
Nov 21, 2009
Climbed "the Sherman Climb" in Lake City on November 19...

Very good early season conditions, however the pillar is certainly in WI5 condition. (See Matt T's post from Nov 6). Should be improving with solid melt-freeze cycle the last few nights.

Check out Pics for a better idea of conditions on the upper pitches here.
mike bromberg
From Revelstoke
Joined Aug 1, 2007
315 points
Nov 21, 2009
S. Mineral climbs are all in and the road is still drive-able with no special precautions or equipment. Final pitches are all super wet and chandeliered but good fun still to be had. Snowblind crux is spicier than last year - bring stubbies, balance, and courage.

Stairway is in but definitely harder than normal right now. You can drive to this climb still too. Will post any other observations tomorrow. Should be a worthwhile Thanksgiving destination.
Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
155 points
Nov 22, 2009
Matt Toensing wrote:
OHHHH YEEEAAAAAHHHHHHH!!!!! Ice season. I am headed down to the front range today and was curious if possibly lincoln has any ice or maybe officer's gulch. I doubt vail has anything but it is a possibility for us. Also, there is some stuff coming in the san juans. Sherman is in (the pillar is a little dicey but not bad, my boy took a fall and diployed a screamer on the pillar) and others around that area should be in I just haven't had a chance to get out there again. Thanks, Matt

Silverton is fat....most climbs in the guide book are in
mountainmaiden
From durango
Joined Jan 10, 2009
0 points
Nov 23, 2009
I concur with Mountainmaiden. 2nd Gully is in fat shape - but no Grade 5 option at the top :^( 1st looks good too. Stairway had 2 parties on it today, but be aware it'll be steeper/harder than "normal" until it fattens up. Goldline is slush in a corner (i.e. not in). The crux pitch of Hoser's Highway looks awesome, but looks a bit scrabbly getting up to it. Highway to Hell (AKA Highway 666 or Highway 66) looks excellent and not much snow on the approach. P1 of Whorehouse Hoses looks "interesting" - the lower half is offset to the left of the upper half by quite a few feet (might be normal, this is the earliest I've looked at it). Upper pitches of WHH look reasonable. We drove quite a way up Cunningham Gulch looking for ice but didn't find anything up to the point we were willing to drive (about 2 miles). I'll post some pics when I get a few minutes. Word in the gear shop is that the Skylight area doesn't have anything right now (but I didn't drive up there). Ice Park is coming along nicely (but still thin smears and hanging 'sicles) Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
155 points


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