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Turkey Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brain Cramps T 
Chopping Block T 
Curving Crack Variation T 
Dash and Thrangle T 
Direct Hit T 
Eastern Front, The T 
Fiend, The T 
Finger Lickin' Good T 
Glen's Pancake T,TR 
Gobbler's Grunt T 
Great White Crime T 
In Style, Out of Fashion T,S,TR 
Jump Start T 
Little Edward's Little Overhang T 
Nightime Madness T 
Northern Comfort T 
Rastafarian T 
Route 902 T 
Satyr's Asshole T 
Second Coming T 
Southern Comfort T 
Stewart's Crack T 
Straw Turkey T 
That's All You Get For Five Bucks T,TR 
Tofonareeker T 
Tryptophane T 
Turkey Shoot T 
Vanishing Point T 
Wild Fire T 

Turkey Rock Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.11374, -105.23904 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 52,908
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Joe Keyser on Jan 1, 2001

69° | 47°

61° | 41°

56° | 37°

53° | 36°

56° | 39°

56° | 39°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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This is the main crag in the Turkey Rock area. It has wonderful crack climbing and some scattered face climbing with routes up to 3 pitches in length mostly on its south face. The setting is beautiful, the cracks are plentiful, the difficulties are moderate, and the area is popular. At one point there was an entire guidebooklet devoted to this area with most of the routes on this rock. The granite is known for its coarseness. Taping may be considered for most. The walkoffs are straightforward. Enjoy.

Getting There 

When you approach Turkey Rocks from the campgound, you are walking up behind the formations. The trail goes to the top of the hill, and down towards the front of most of the climbs. At the top of the hill, (Looking downhill and away from the climbs) on the left is Turkey Perch. Down, and to the right is Turkey Rock. Turkey Tail is downhill, and left of Turkey Perch.

Climbing Season

Weather station 7.5 miles from here

29 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Turkey Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Turkey Rock:
Nightime Madness   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad   
Glen's Pancake   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
The Eastern Front   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   
Stewart's Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches   
Gobbler's Grunt   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   
Wild Fire   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
The Fiend   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   
Jump Start   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Southern Comfort   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   
Turkey Shoot   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   
Brain Cramps   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Direct Hit   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Trad, 2 pitches, 75'   
Northern Comfort   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 210'   
Straw Turkey   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   
Satyr's Asshole   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad   
Finger Lickin' Good   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Vanishing Point   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Great White Crime   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
In Style, Out of Fashion   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Tryptophane   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Turkey Rock

Featured Route For Turkey Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: The route follows the prominant crack in the cente...

Great White Crime 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  Colorado : South Platte : ... : Turkey Rock
Located on the south face of Turkey Rock, this route starts to the right of the bolted arete (In Style, Out of Fashion). This is in the lowpoint of the right side of the rock. Similar climbing to that of Vanishing Point with good fingers in the seams and feet where you need them. Start up incipient cracks until a step left is necessary. Reach for the handcrack, and it's over. It is 70' to a chain anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Turkey Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from the top of Turkey Rock.
The view from the top of Turkey Rock.
Rock Climbing Photo: Turkey Rock.
Turkey Rock.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pike's Peak from Turkey Rock.
Pike's Peak from Turkey Rock.

Comments on Turkey Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 18, 2013
By Darin Lang
Jul 24, 2001
An alternate, and IMO easier, approach is to continue on FR 360 for approximately 1 mile past the campground sign. Take the first left after you get to the top of the hill (there used to be a tree marked with a red "dot" here), and follow that road until you reach one of two or three indistinct parking areas. Hike straight up and slightly right, aiming for the obvious low point of the ridge, and you will soon find yourself directly above Turkey Perch.
By Dan McNamara
Jul 11, 2002

It is my understanding that all of the Pike national forest is closed due to the Hayman fire. this includes the Turkey rocks area. bummer. The south platte areas near Pine are all private land so they are still open.

By Jeremy Monahan
From: Fort Fun, CO
Jul 12, 2002
Thanks a million dan. I'm glad I didn't head up there today. j monahan
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 1, 2002
I don't get this way much but might go over the weekend. Is it still closed?
By Luc Gruenther
Apr 22, 2003
I just talked to Pete Gallager at the Forest Service yesterday (April 22, 2003) and he said that there will most likely be a limited reopening of the Hayman burn areas on April 28th, 2003. Sheep's Nose will probably be accessible as normal, but climbers may only be able to access Turkey by foot from Stump Ranch...a long hike.

He was sure to emphasize that the decision is a "fluid" one, so don't count on anything for sure. Check for press releases, especially as we approach the April 28th date.
By Brian Janezich
May 19, 2003
The perch is a good area for intermediate climbers like myself. Make sure and do Stephenwolf which is a classic 5.9 and a bit of a grunt in several places. Make sure and bring some tape gloves too. Awsome area, free camping, friendly climbers, bomber granite and not crowded during the week.
By Jeff Buhl
May 21, 2003
So are Turkey Rocks open now (as of 5-21-03)? I checked the gov't site above but it was " under construction". Any information is appreciated.

By Dan Russell
May 22, 2003
Yes, for a few weeks now. Sheep's Nose is open as well.

Here's the order from April 28th:

It basically says the rules are pretty much back to normal, just make sure you only park in designated parking areas, which are marked with signs.
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Sep 1, 2004
The road is open all the way to the parking area on the backside of Turkey rocks. It is in good shape.It's also open a couple of more miles towards Big rock.9-1-2004
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 1, 2004
Any idea how close one can get to Big Rock from the Turkey Rocks side, assuming a moderately beefy 4x4?
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 5, 2004
I was wondering if anyone knows what the fingers/hand crack about 20 ft. right of the 5.6 Nightime Madness 3rd pitch chimney is. It fades out up high and you have to go over a small bulge with virtually no hands and a small nut below you. Felt real real hard. Someone said it was vanishing point but that climb is listed as only 1 pitch.????
By Jack Danneberg
From: Aspen, CO
Mar 18, 2013
Howdy, I found a rope on Nighttime Madness on Friday 3/15. If this is your rope, call 303 350 7523 and tell me the color and brand.
Yee Haw!

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