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No Name Canyon

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No Name Canyon Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 6,212'
Location: 39.57124, -107.29179 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,719
Administrators: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Bryan Gall on Jan 16, 2004
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JD Morgan in No Name, Colorado.


No Name, a side canyon off of Glenwood Canyon, offers a number of single pitch granite cracks in an easy to access yet spectacular setting. A North-South running canyon, it is possible to chase the sun or shade by alternating between the east and west side of the canyon. Because of the availability of sunshine or shade, No Name is climbable spring, summer, and fall. No Name is comprised of the same Pre-Cambrian granite found in the center of Glenwood. The closest comparable rock is found in the Black Canyon. With a strong traditional ethic, No Name is a great place to begin trad leading or to hone your skills on its harder cracks. Layton Kor is said to have originally ascended many of the lines here. The only bolts to be found here are for top anchors. Some route information can be found in Dave Pegg's guide Western Sloper.

Getting There 

No Name Canyon can be accessed from the No Name exit off I-70 in Glenwood Canyon. It is the first exit east of Glenwood Springs. Once you turn off I-70, head north (away from the river) approximitely a half a mile until the road dead ends at the Jess Weaver trailhead. Park in the designated trailhead parking or on the road. Please don't block the parking for private homes. Walk up the trail (actually at this point the trail is a dirt road for utility access to Glenwood Spring's water supply) a little more than a quarter of a mile.

The east side climbs can be accessed directly off of the road before crossing No Name Creek. Cross the creek and walk back down canyon to access the west side climbs.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.1 miles from here

37 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in No Name Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for No Name Canyon:
Boulder Traverse   V2 5+     Boulder   NoName Canyon Boulder Probl...
Second Dihedral   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   East Side : Pink Face area
Jungle Book (aka Graduation Crack)   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   East Side : Gray Face area
The War on Peace   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Jumbled Buttress
Twin Cracks aka Railroad Cracks   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Poison Ivy Wall
Trojan Horse   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 9 pitches, 700'   East Side : Quartzite Palace
Electric Butterfly   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   East Side : Bridge area
Poison Ivy? (Garden Salad)   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Poison Ivy Wall
Unnamed aka The Ironing Board   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   East Side : Gray Face area
Sumac   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Poison Ivy Wall
Courage   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Jumbled Buttress
Thin Crack Variation   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   East Side : Gray Face area
Lightning Bolt Crack aka The Sickle   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Poison Ivy Wall
Lone Pine Tree Direct   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   East Side : Lone Pine Tree Wall
The Pink Face   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   East Side : Pink Face area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in No Name Canyon

Featured Route For No Name Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Lone Pine Tree climbs.

Lone Pine Tree Direct 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  Colorado : Glenwood Springs : ... : Lone Pine Tree Wall
This route is on the face furthest left on the east side of No Name Creek. It is down and to the left of the Pink Face. It is the direct line up to a lone pine tree anchor (hence the inventive name) which is reached by an easy fifth class move off of the trail up to a spacious belay ledge. The splitter line straight up from the ledge has some great thin hand crack moves. Some insecure thin hands can make this route a challenge for gear placement; I wouldn't recommend ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Comments on No Name Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rob Dillon
May 5, 2004
Is this a one-rope crag?
By Bryan Gall
From: New Castle, CO
May 6, 2004
Generally yes. All the established routes can be done with a single rope. The option exists on the West Side to go "exploring" above the cragging routes. Most of this is low angle with a few worthwhile cracks. You may want a second rope for rappelling off trees and other various anchors. If you really want quality multi pitch routes that require two rope descents in the Glenwood area, head across the Colorado River between the Hanging Lake and Shoshone exits.
By Brosky
Aug 5, 2008
Are there any walk-offs here for top-roping, by chance?
By Lisha
Aug 24, 2008
Just wanted to put the word out to expect somewhat of a nasty approach to the Jungle Book area once you step off the trail/access road. It is a very steep grade and consists of mostly dirt with few solid imbedded rocks for stable foot placement. The local guide makes no mention of this. Awesome rock to climb on and throw some gear into, if you survive the approach!
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Aug 24, 2008
Brosky, It is possible to toprope many of the crags at No Name, some easily done and some not-so-easily. The new guide attempts to give some basic directions for doing so. The Jungle Book area, Lone Tree Wall and Beginners Slab are all reasonably easy to get to with some basic to moderate scrambling.
By rick gardiner
From: Grand Junction, CO,
May 29, 2010
If you pass the first (steep!) side trail up to this crag, there is a much mellower trail angling back up to the wall with a hand line to assist up the loose slope.
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jul 7, 2011
I've spied a couple of lines that might be worth climbing. Maybe not though.... Like that splitter line you see on your right side as you walk the flat spot on the road up. The shallow dihedral that is probly over 100' long terminating on a pedestal 2/3 of the way up the Sawatch sandstone wall. Scoped it out one day and it looks like it would take lots of big cams, more than I have for sure. Spotted another dihedral in the buttress up canyon from that one kinda the gully between them really (both of these options would probly be full blown adventure routes complete with lots of choss). There is a granite buttress that sits below these that could be cleaned and turned into a mixed crag. We should get a crew together to develop some new routes.
By Andrew Hewitt
From: Somerville
Aug 18, 2015
There are two (new?) sport routes on the west side of the canyon once you cross the river. Anyone have any FA info? They were lots of fun, and I think somewhere in the low to mid-.10 range?

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