Clearing the crux on East of Eden.
The Eden Area consists of a collection of mostly mixed climbs with a couple of pure trad and pure sport lines. All routes are a single pitch, and some require 2 ropes to rap down. In my opinion, the crown jewel of this area and possibly of all Poudre Canyon is the trad line East Of Eden
(5.9). This area is right next to the road and also directly across from a portion of the narrows of the Cache la Poudre River. So in other words, communication can be difficult at best once you're off the deck.
Eden is located about 19.5 miles up the canyon from the intersection of CO 14 and US 287 (Ted's Place). There is a pullout on the right, directly below the climb East of Eden (a right-facing dihedral). There are also some caution signs for climbers near the pullout which may help identify the area.
Per Ivan Rezucha
: from Stove Prairie Road, head west a couple of miles to The Narrows, where climbable rock closes in on the road on both sides. Shortly after you cross the bridge which puts you on the north side of the river, East of Eden
, the obvious, large, right-facing dihedral, will be facing you on the right side of the road. There is a small pullout on the right, and there is a large lone pine tree on a ledge a little right of the dihedral.
Weather station 8.8 miles from here
6 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Eden Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Eden Area
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Eden Area:
Featured Route For Eden Area
Fish & Whistle 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Colorado
: Fort Collins
: ... : The Eden Wall
Fish & Whistle climbs the dramatic arete to the left of East of Eden. There is some history to this route (see comments below), but on closer inspection it is unclear if the route was ever bolted and chopped.As it stands now, it is a fully bolt protected line and is one of the best of the grade in the Poudre. The crux comes at the 2nd bolt and continues up the arete with continuous climbing in the 5.10 range. There are some gently committing moves between bolts, but all the bolts a...[more] Browse More Classics in Colorado
By Joe Anderson
May 15, 2006
There is a climb to the left of East of Eden, in the next opening. It's 9 bolts, has good crimps and pulls through a nice roof. Does anyone know anything about it, or have beta for the other routes up there? It was a fun climb, I would say it's an easy .11.
By Brett Stiefken
May 26, 2007
I believe the climb your refering to is Original Sin, 10c which would make it around 5.11 since most of the older routes in the canyon are sandbagged. It's just left of another sport route with missing hangers, and right of a cave/gully.
The only guidebook I've seen any of these Poudre routes in is Peter Hubbel's out of print guidebook called 'Front Range Crags' 1993.
They will probably be in Craig Luebbens new guidebook when it's finished.
By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Mar 20, 2009
One of my favorite car trad climbs, I'm not a big fan of road climbing, but this line is awesome!!!
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 17, 2010
More detail on getting there:
From Stove Prairie Road, head west a couple of miles to The Narrows, where climbable rock closes in on the road on both sides. Shortly after you cross the bridge which puts you on the north side of the river, East of Eden, the obvious, large, right-facing dihedral, will be facing you on the right side of the road. There is a small pullout on the right, and there is a large lone pine tree on a ledge a little right of the dihedral.
By Ken Duncan
From: Ft Collins, CO
Oct 25, 2016
Eden may have the highest concentration of great 5.9 to 5.11 climbs in the canyon. Six great routes in 100 feet.