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Eldorado Mountain

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Eldorado Mountain Rock Climbing 

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Location: 39.9204, -105.288 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 61,388
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001

44° | 29°

39° | 23°

29° | 22°

44° | 33°

50° | 34°

47° | 31°
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Zephyr ad from National Geographic, October 1957.

Private Property issues MORE INFO >>>


This area includes everything on Eldorado Mountain, which is South of Eldorado Canyon. The most recognizable rock is the Mickey Mouse Ears on Mickey Mouse Wall. Rossiter's new Eldo book lists many more recently developed crags on this hill.

The ridges are numbers left to right (south to north) here. Some guidebooks have listed the ridges from right to left (north to south), so there is potential for confusion.

There is a lot of poison ivy in the area. If you are sensitive, watch out for it.

Some of the bolting here involves use of atypical or homemade hangers. Some of the bolts have been shot at by irritated landowners. Use caution.

Getting There 

There are many approaches. To reach Mickey Mouse Wall, take the road to Eldo, but go right before you get into the town, turn left on a paved road up to a small parking lot. The access road continues from here, but you must hike along this road to an indistinctive trail that crosses a meadow, and follows the stream up to the RR tracks. Hike the talus field to the towers. A better description is in order here, but this is a place that is best found with someone who has already been there.

Crossing onto railroad property is trespassing. They will confront you if you do so.

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.9 miles from here

135 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',14],['3 Stars',51],['2 Stars',45],['1 Star',22],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Eldorado Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Eldorado Mountain:
Green Dihedral   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   Mickey Mouse Wall
Culp's Fault   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 225'   Mickey Mouse Wall
Perversion   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 350'   Mickey Mouse Wall
Parallel Journey   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Mickey Mouse Wall
Asahi   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 170'   Mickey Mouse Wall
Captain Beyond   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 5 pitches   Mickey Mouse Wall
Lifestream   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 230'   Mickey Mouse Wall
Beagle's Ear   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Mickey Mouse Wall
Perilous Journey   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X     TR, 1 pitch   Mickey Mouse Wall
Vergin' on Perversion   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   Mickey Mouse Wall
The Fornicator   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Ridge 1
Ms. Coolie's Saloon aka Killer Elite   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   Ridge 4
Tribal Boundaries   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   The Congo : Tribal Boundaries, The Sacr...
The Adultress   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Ridge 1
Soul Train   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   The Industrial Wall
Silverback    5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   The Congo : The Gorilla
Occupied Territory   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Ridge 4
Tunnel Vision   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   The Industrial Wall
T.G.V.   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   The Industrial Wall
Rogue   5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Industrial Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Eldorado Mountain

Featured Route For Eldorado Mountain
Rock Climbing Photo: George Squibb on Stigmata. Photo Will Nicholls.

Stigmata 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  Colorado : Boulder : ... : Mickey Mouse Wall
I'm pretty sure this thing is still unrepeated - after 15 years. Maybe it's the long walk, or the .11a approach pitch...but it's a high quality route in a spectacular position.Start by climbing the Green Dihedral directly into Box Car Willie, finally traversing right to the belay below Red Dihedral. With a long rope and a little bit of 4th classing, you can get there in one pitch. The route starts with the low...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Eldorado Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: BH on FA of the Golden Nugget's west side.
BH on FA of the Golden Nugget's west side.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rails.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ridge numbering on this website.
Ridge numbering on this website.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rocky Flats Nuclear Weapons Plant. View from Eldor...
Rocky Flats Nuclear Weapons Plant. View from Eldor...
Rock Climbing Photo: Train on Eldorado Mountain.
Train on Eldorado Mountain.
Rock Climbing Photo: Eldo Mtn. as seen from the air. You can clearly se...
Eldo Mtn. as seen from the air. You can clearly se...
Rock Climbing Photo: Southeast Flank of Eldorado Mountain, showing Ridg...
BETA PHOTO: Southeast Flank of Eldorado Mountain, showing Ridg...

Comments on Eldorado Mountain Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dave Brower
From: cs co
Oct 19, 2002
The local wingnut with the gun (Bill Schuller) sold the place to Pinnaclecommunications Inc. I work up there often and have been climbing on the convenient bouldering areas near the road ("Cloud Nine" area, etc.) since the early '90s. I rarely see old Bill around anymore, but I've seen him once in a while putting around the place, so be careful, he still acts like he owns the place... he has about 2 years left before he should be gone completley. He told me once that he "likes to shoot the bolts out of the rock with his gun".
By Tod Anderson
Jan 27, 2004
It is important to be discrete when accessing the Wild West/West Bank or Mickey Mouse from the Plainview area. First, don't park at the Plainview railroad crossing. This is because it is a lot more obvious to sensitive residents that you are in the area and painfully obvious that you are walking on the tracks. It is much better to park a couple of hundred yards below the crossing on the last left hand switchback and walk due west through the Open Space to access the tracks beyond the maintenance yard and out of sight. It's also less obvious that you're climbing as a lot of people come to this area to walk their dogs along the roadway, etc.

Second, don't walk through the tunnel to get to the West Bank, Ridge One, etc. A well marked trail leads around the tunnel and it only takes about five minutes more than walking through the tunnel. This track has a lot more traffic than in years past with sometimes several trains per hour. There have been a lot of problems here before, so keep a low profile.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 18, 2004
I love hikin' through those tunnels. It makes the day. Especially when you space out and step on a decapitated skunk or railroad grease. So good!!!!!

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