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Animal World

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aardvark T,TR 
Animal Instinct S 
Animal Magnetism S 
Animal Riots Activist S 
Animation S 
Automatic Choke T,TR 
Balance, The T,S 
Beast Food Left S 
Beast Food Right S 
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head T,S 
Blockhead S 
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 
Closer To God S 
Cold Snap T 
Crack Corner T 
Cujo Tranquilizer S 
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 
Dihedral T,TR 
Evolution Revolution S 
Familiar Strangers T 
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 
Fifth Destiny, The S 
Fifth World, The T,S 
Free Willie S 
Geritol Generation T,TR 
Global Gorilla S 
Gull Whackers T 
Hands of Destiny S 
Hope and Pray T,S 
Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 
Isn't Life Strange S 
Joint Venture S 
Krakatoa T 
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 
Lazy Day S 
Lovely to See You T,S 
Melancholy Man S 
New Beginnings S 
Nice To Be Here S 
Old Dihedral T 
Piles of Trials S 
Pit Bull Prowser S 
Reversal Roof S 
Ride My See-saw S 
Split Personality S 
Strange Times T,S 
Sundog S 
Talking Out Of Turn S 
Threshold Of A Dream S 
Triple Play T 
Tuesday Afternoon S 
Unfamiliar Strangers S 
We Don't Do Crack T 
Wine and Roses T 

Animal World Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.9978, -105.4149 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 123,769
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 1, 2001  with updates from Nathan Kofahl and 1 more
Forecast:
Today

71° | 38°
Wednesday

68° | 43°
Thursday

73° | 46°
Friday

65° | 39°
Saturday

53° | 35°
Sunday

50° | 32°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Bob Horan trad on Hands of Destiny, Animal World.

  • Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    The Lower Animal World crag contains a good selection of bolted sport routes, as well as a handful of moderate crack climbs. The upper Animal World cliff contains about 15 superb bolted sport climbs, with most falling in the 5.11-5.12+ range. A few will require either two ropes to get down, or need to be done a couple of pitches (bolted belay stations are provided for these climbs). The rock quality is fantastic, and all of the routes are well bolted and are of the highest quality. The cliff is divided into two sides by an arete, and most of the climbs lie on the left side.

    L->R:

    Lower Cliff
    A. Aardvark, 9-, 1p, 50', gear or TR.
    B1. Crack Corner, 7, 1p, 50', gear.
    B2 or C. Triple Play, 10a, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
    D. Animal Riots Activist, 12-, 1p, 45', bolts.
    E. Piles of Trials, 12, 1p, 40', bolts.
    F. Automatic Choke, 12. 1p, 50', gear.
    G. Cannabis Sportiva, 10, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
    H. Old Dihedral, 8, 1p, 45', gear.
    I. Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food), 12, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
    J. Joint Venture, 11-, 1-2p, 100', bolts.
    above I & J. Beast Food Left, 12, 1p, 85', bolts.
    above I & J.. Beast Food Right, 12, 1p, 85', bolts.
    K. Gull Whackers, 8, 1p, 95', gear & bolts.
    L. Animation, 8, 1p, 100', originally gear, now bolts.
    M. Familiar Strangers, 8, 1p, 80', gear.
    N. Unfamiliar Stranger, 9, 1p, 85', bolts & gear.

    O. Cold Snap, 11-, 1p, 80', gear & bolts.
    P. Free Willie, 11-, 1p, <100', bolts.
    Q. Days of Future Passed, 12-, 1p, <100', bolts, fixed pro.
    R. Threshold Of A Dream, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.
    S. Nice To Be Here, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.
    T. Reversal Roof, 13-, 1p, bolts.
    U. Lovely to See You, 12, 1p, 70', gear & bolts.
    V. Tuesday Afternoon, 11, 1p, 75', bolts.
    W. Melancholy Man, 11, 1p, 75', bolts & sling.
    X. Is It Ready Yet...Moe, 9+, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
    Y. We Don't Do Crack, 9-, 1p, 50', gear.
    Z. Lazy Day, 9+, 1p, 50', bolts.
    AA. Dihedral, 7, 2-3p, gear.
    BB. Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello, 9+, 1p, 50', bolts.
    CC. Geritol Generation, 9-, 50', gear.

    Above AA and ...:
    DD.. Ride My See-saw, 10-, 80', gear & bolts.
    EE. Wine & Roses, 10+, 60', gear.
    FF. Talking Out Of Turn, 10-, 1-2p, 115', bolts.
    GG1. Split Personality, 12, 1p, 95', bolts.
    GG2. Isn't Life Strange, 11, 2p, 105', bolts.
    HH. POS or P2 of Dihedral, 7, 2p, gear.
    II. Crack, 1p, gear.
    JJ. Strange Times, 10+, 60', gear & bolts.
    KK. The Balance, 11-, 75', gear & bolts.
    LL. Hope and Pray, 8, 60', gear & bolts.

    Upper Cliff
    A. Krakatoa, 10, 2p, gear.
    B. The Fifth World, 12, 1p, gear.
    BC. The Fifth Destiny, 12+, 1p, bolts +/- gear.
    C. Hands of Destiny, 12+, 2p, 60m rope req'd, gear & bolts.
    D. Animal Instinct, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
    E. Sundog, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
    F. Evolution Revolution, 12, 1p, bolts.
    G. Global Gorilla, 12, 1-3p, 170', bolts.
    H. Animal Magnetism, 11, 1p, 110', bolts.
    I. Animal Antagonizer, 13+?, 1p, bolts.
    J. Cujo Magnetism, 12-, 1p, bolts.
    K. Cujo Tranquilizer, 12-, 1p, 100', bolts.
    L. Pit Bull Prowser, 13-, 1-2p, bolts.
    M. Wandervogel, 11- R (crosses Cujo Tranquilizer), 2p, gear.
    N. New Beginnings, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
    O. Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head, 11+, 3p, 150', bolts & gear.

    P.? ??, 11, 1p, 70', gear & bolts.

    Getting There 

    There are two ways to reach the Animal World cliffs. Park in the same pullout as the Boulderado (8.5 miles up the canyon, the parking is on the left just after a long sweeping right turn in the road), and walk up to the base of the Boulderado cliff. From the left (West) side of the Boulderado follow a trail straight up the hill until it branches right. Take this right turn (it should lead you above and behind the Boulderado cliff), until you see the Lower Animal World cliff up on your left.

    To reach the Upper Animal World cliff, continue along the base of the Lower cliff (towards the right side of it) until you reach its end. The Upper cliff lies uphill and to the right of the Lower cliff. The upper cliff is almost 200 feet tall, and faces downhill.

    A different approach can be made by walking right from the base of the Boulderado for 75 yards before heading straight uphill to the Upper cliff. Be EXTREMELY careful not to knock loose rocks down to the highway below, and while you're at it, try not to let yourself fall down onto the road either.

    Per Nathan Kofahl: the parking area may be found with GPS coordinates:

    39.9976515 / -105.416491 and viewed here.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 4.6 miles from here

    54 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',24],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',1]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',3],['5.8',5],['5.9',6],['5.10',6],['5.11',14],['5.12',17],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Animal World

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Animal World:
    Animation   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Familiar Strangers   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Unfamiliar Strangers   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
    Talking Out Of Turn   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches   
    Cannabis Sportiva   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   
    Joint Venture   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 2 pitches   
    Free Willie   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Wine and Roses   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Isn't Life Strange   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 105'   
    Animal Magnetism   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
    Threshold Of A Dream   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   
    Animal Riots Activist   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
    Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Sundog   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Piles of Trials   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
    Cujo Tranquilizer   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Blockhead   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
    Animal Instinct   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
    Global Gorilla   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 170'   
    Hands of Destiny   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 2 pitches   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Animal World

    Featured Route For Animal World
    Rock Climbing Photo: Shaun Reed making the long reach on the lower crux...

    Animal Instinct 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  Colorado : Boulder Canyon : Animal World
    This climb is on what is described here as the Upper Animal Wall. If you approach from the Lower Animal Wall the climb comes into view right away as the left side of the bolted arete. A good winter or evening route which sees its share of sunshine. The route starts upon a ledge 20' off the ground. To reach the ledge, you can clip the first bolt of Sun Dog with a long runner, or scramble up 5.8ish. Thin liebacks will take you through the first 3 bolts, to the first 5.12 crux. A ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

    Photos of Animal World Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Animals!
    Animals!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Right side.
    Right side.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Left side.
    Left side.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Taken from Sleeping Beauty Slab
    BETA PHOTO: Taken from Sleeping Beauty Slab
    Rock Climbing Photo: Routes on the east side of Animal World.  P. The F...
    BETA PHOTO: Routes on the east side of Animal World. P. The F...

    Comments on Animal World Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 3, 2017
    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 24, 2003
    I have seen very serious accidents on these bends caused by rockfall. While the chances are these were due to natural causes, it's not worth the risk. Take the usual approach, and save someone's life.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jun 7, 2005
    When you are walking up to Animal World there is another small crag about 50 feet above the trail when the trail heads right over the top of Boulderado.

    The rock has about 5 lines. The two middle ones share an anchor, the left is probably 9+ or 10 - and the right side is probably 12. Off to the right is an easy route, probably 5.6 The routes are maybe 35 - 40 ft high.

    Does anyone know if these routes are on this site? They're not stellar, but not too bad.
    By ac
    Jun 8, 2005
    Mine Hole Crag, it is on this site.
    By Joe Collins
    Jun 8, 2005
    The harder one was put up by Jim Hone and goes at 11d. He showed this route to me when I first moved to Boulder 4 years ago. I suspect he put up the other routes as well.
    By Greg Hand
    From: Golden, CO
    Jun 8, 2005
    Look for those routes under "Mine Hole Crag". They are all reasonably enjoyable, with the 5.12 beyond my current limits. Make sure you finish off the visit with the 5.8 crack on the right. :)_
    By Joe Collins
    Jun 8, 2005
    I looked up "Mine Hole Crag"... the route I was referring to is a different one: "Ruff Roof". Apparently there are more climbs up there than I thought.
    By Julius Beres
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 3, 2008
    I guess I made the same mistake as others here and went to Mine Hole Crag while looking for lower Animal World.

    Lower Animal World is pretty much directly above and to the right of Boulderado. We initially went too far up and were traversing above Lower Animal World... To get to that crag, take the right just as you get to the top of Boulderado (I thought that right was just for the getting to the anchors of Boulderado and continued on...) Now that I know the way, it is only a 5 minute walk in, but I can see how people can easily go too far up.
    By lukas hill
    Mar 9, 2009
    Lost my Canon point 'n' shoot up there on 3/7/09. If you found it can, you call Lukas at 720-381-8159 or drop it by Neptune's Mountaineering.
    cheers
    By Brent Apgar
    From: Out of the Loop
    Apr 14, 2009
    To the Admin-
    It's nice the way the Animal World home page is organized w/ all the routes listed starting from one side of the cliff, even if there isn't a pg. specifically for every route. It helps immensely when trying to figure out the overall layout of the area. It would be great if more of the pages describing an area were organized this way.
    Just my 2cents worth.
    cheers, BA
    By Joshua Merriam
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 15, 2009
    Blockhead is between I. and J.
    By Adamatrix
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 18, 2011
    Left a rope on top of the Boulderado Wall under the large pine tree, after climbing at Animal World. Anybody pick it up Tuesday July 12 2011? Any info, please email adamatrix1@gmail.
    By Ben Weisman
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 23, 2012
    Hey I found a pair of small Skigear snow/rain pants on the approach to Animal World last Thursday. Let me know what name is on the tag, and I'll get them back to you!
    By Armin Colorado
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 14, 2013
    Found: pair of reading glasses at the crag, looks like they may have been there for a couple weeks....
    By Christina kalb
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 26, 2014
    I found a belay device at Lower Animal World on May 26. Describe it and I'll get it back to you.
    By Pete S
    From: Steamboat Springs, Colorado
    Jul 2, 2014
    Found 1 green and grey US 6 Cypher lace up shoe on lower portion of AW approach on 6/30. Leaving town 7/3. I'll leave it in the Movement lost and found if not contacted today. masonjarmusic[at}gmail.com
    By Kimberley Flores
    Nov 14, 2015
    LOST--silver Grigri at Animal World in Boulder Canyon mid-October. Text me at 760-920-7106 if found--thanks!
    By Anneliese Steel
    Jun 3, 2016
    Hey folks,

    If you're headed out to climb at Animal World this weekend, would you mind keeping an eye out for my wedding ring? I lost it this afternoon (Friday, June 3rd) while climbing at the lower cliffs, and I think it fell out of my pack on the descent. It's a gold band that looks like three twigs wound together.

    Bottle of whiskey to anyone who finds it!

    >>

    Thanks!!!
    Anneliese - 607.232.3278, anneliese.steel@gmail.com
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lost wedding ring.
    Lost wedding ring.
    By Mark Gerken
    Nov 21, 2016
    FOUND: belay device by base of Animal Food. Please email a description of the device to mgerken86@gmail.com, and I'll get that right back to you!

    We apologize profusely if our pack placement caused any confusion!
    By S. Neoh
    Aug 25, 2017
    We will be first-time visitors to Boulder Canyon. For whatever reason, this crag has "animal appeal". Does it get shade in the morning or late afternoon this time of the year (summer), and what are the sporto must-dos here, between .9 and .12b?
    Many thanks for any and all beta!
    By J. Albers
    From: Colorado
    Aug 28, 2017
    ^^^ @ S. Noah.

    AW left side (which is the side that contains some moderates), gets a lot of sun pretty much all day because its largely south-facing. IMHO, it's pretty warm this time of year, but that certainly doesn't stop people from climbing there. The far right side (which contains the classic 11-12 range climbs) gets morning sun and afternoon shade because it's east-facing. Pretty much everything on the far right side is awesome and worth getting on. Hope that helps.
    By slim
    Administrator
    Aug 28, 2017
    If you get up early, the left side gets shade for quite a while, up around Animal Riots Activist. Then you can swing all of the way around to the right side for afternoon shade.
    By S. Neoh
    Sep 3, 2017
    Thanks to everyone who provided valuable sun/shade information, incl. Leo who PM'ed me. What we ended up doing was spending half of the day at Avalon, with a long lunch, and then climbed at Animation and to the right of it. As mentioned above, lots of great routes in this sector. Very enjoyable way to end our trip to CO, and we will be back :)
    We also feel very grateful to those who had kept the hw up-to-date and safe. No nasty 3/8" spinners to be found on anything we came across.

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