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Nip and Tuck

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Antagonism S,TR 
Arête S,TR 
Bock! T 
Boiling Point T,TR 
Caddis/Argus S 
Capital Punishment 
Constrictor T,TR 
Dan-D-Line T,TR 
Ebb Tide TR 
Finger Crack T,TR 
Gyro Captain S 
Hare Balls T,TR 
Heart Throb TR 
Hypotenuse T,TR 
Left-angling Crack T 
Lethal Dose T 
Mr. Spiffy S 
Mr. Stiffy S 
Night Train TR 
Old Dihedral T 
Spread Eages Dhare T,TR 
Surprising Slab TR 
Unknown A S 
Unknown B S 
Unnamed (submitted as Doc's Route) T 

Nip and Tuck Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,650'
Location: 39.98709, -105.43728 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 37,216
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001  with updates from Nathan Kofahl and 2 more
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: The routes on the center/right Tuck part of Nip & ...

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  • Description 

    This is a good rock with variety. It has cracks, to aretes, to sheer faces. On a corner it is sheltered from the winds and car noise is at a minimum. The base is very belayer-friendly - the warm sun basks the base in sun for a long time, and there is a soft clearing around. It appears, though, that this rock does not see as much traffic as some of the rocks closer to Boulder - lichen abounds on the rock. TR: The first three routes on Nip can be toproped via a scramble to the W. side of the rock and a hairy traverse out onto a ledge. Ebb Tide is best setup right above the climb in a wide crack. The Night Train is most directly setup out on the ledge using a short vertical crack and a horizontal crack at head level for gear placement. For Heart Throb, you can use the same anchor as Night Train, but use a bolt above the roof as a directional. Bring some long slings also (about 10-15 feet). Between Nip and Tuck is a gully with access to the left and right.

    L->R these appear to be:

    A. Ebb Tide, 10, 1p, gear.
    B1. Night Train, 9+, 1p, gear or TR.
    B2. Heart Throb, 10, 1p, bolt & gear.
    C. Lethal Dose, 10, 1p, 100', gear.
    D. Small Dose?, 12-, 1p, gear.
    E. Beguiled?, 10, 1p, gear.
    F. Borrowed Time?, 10, 1p, gear.
    G1. Left-Angling Crack, 9-, 1p, gear.
    G2. Doc's Route, 7, 1p, 80', gear & bolts.
    H. Bock!, 5.7 PG-13, 50', gear.
    I. Arete, 10+, 1p, 50', bolts.
    J Antagonism, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.
    K. Finger Crack, 9-, 1p, 50', gear.
    L. Surprising Slab, 8, 1p, gear.
    M. Old Dihedral, 5, 1p, 65', gear.
    N. Hare Balls, 7, 1p, gear.
    O. Dan-D-Line, 6, 1p, gear.
    P. Spread Eagles Dhare, 9, 1p, gear or TR.
    Q. Constrictor, 9, 1p, gear or TR.
    R. Unknown A, 1p, 45', bolts & gear.
    S. Unknown B, 1p, 45', bolts.
    T. Hypotenuse, 9, 1p, gear or TR.
    U. Boiling Point, 9, 1p, gear or TR.
    V. Argus, 13, 1p, 40', bolts.
    W. Mr. Stiffy, 14-, 1p, 40', bolts.
    X. Gyro Captain, 12, 1p, bolts.
    Z. Rob's Start Direct?, 13+, 1p, bolts.
    AA. Mr. Spiffy, 13-, 1p, bolts.
    BB. Capital Punishment, A2 or C2, 1p, gear.

    Getting There 

    It's 10.5 miles from the start of the canyon, on the right side in the middle of a turn to the right. Parking is limited directly underneath, but there is parking further along.

    Per Nathan Kofahl: the GPS coordinates of the parking area are:

    39°59'18.4"N (39.988614) / 105°26'08.9"W (-105.4273684)

    and

    here is a street view where a car is parked near the crag.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 3.3 miles from here

    25 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',2],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',8],['5.10',4],['5.11',0],['5.12',2],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',1],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Nip and Tuck

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Nip and Tuck:
    Finger Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
    Boiling Point   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
    Arête   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
    Antagonism   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
    Gyro Captain   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
    Mr. Spiffy   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Nip and Tuck

    Featured Route For Nip and Tuck
    Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Schulte bouldering out the direct start to G...

    Mr. Spiffy 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  Colorado : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck
    Mr. Spiffy is on the overhung wall next to the parking area for Nip & Tuck. The regular start begins with an awkward mantle. The moves go left from here, through some big but hard to use sidepulls, then to a jug on the arete (which is surprisingly hard to clip from). A couple thrutchy moves and you're at the crux, which involves pretty tough body position on slopey crimps and gastons pulling over the lip. Look for a key right foot under the lip to get your hips up, and it's all over. I may ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

    Photos of Nip and Tuck Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo:
    BETA PHOTO
    Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Jones @Tuck working on Mr. Spiffy circa 1980...
    Chris Jones @Tuck working on Mr. Spiffy circa 1980...

    Comments on Nip and Tuck Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Jim Cormier
    Jul 25, 2001
    This is one of the best areas for top roping with groups, plenty of routes, plentiful anchors, easy approach, and plenty of parking. This is also a great spot to get students comfortable with rappelling, as the start is straight forward. PLEASE try to keep noise, trash and visibility in control, as this area has had access issues a few years ago, and I believe it is actually private property.
    By Matt Rutledge
    Jul 17, 2002
    I do agree this is a pretty good area for small group climbing. However, please be thoughtful of those around you. A group of four probably doesn't need to set up four ropes on the same rock.
    By Steve Kemler
    Aug 4, 2002
    The fact that this route is so popular with guides and groups almost caused disaster this weekend. Hiding from some much needed rain inside our car, my partner and I watched as a whole family was almost hit trying to cross the road. These routes are located at a bend in the canyon, so when crossing there is not much visibility. Please, walk the 100 feet so that you are on one side of the bend or the other and can see at least one direction. Or better yet, park at one of the eight or so spaces on the same side of the road as the crag. If those are all filled, chances are that it is too crowded to be much fun anyways.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Mar 31, 2003
    Tuck's large dihedral (with topropes on either side, just to the east of Nip)...I cannot remember the name of those. The top anchors consist of two bolts with a chain connecting them. Not sure why the anchors were done this way. Use caution and clip both bolts or at least two separate links of the chain...just for the sake of redundancy. Anyone with a bolt cutter could easily improve these anchors by separating the chains and eliminating the ability for someone to throw a rope over the chain. I don't think "rope over chain" is a generally accepted top anchor and it creates single point of failure.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jun 28, 2004
    Beware of climbing here.

    My vehicle was broken into (within 15 minutes of parking it) and everything was stolen - radio, wallet and wedding band.

    My recommendation is to park where you can see your vehicle even though it's tough to get back onto the road.

    This just happened on Thursday 6/24/04.

    If you passed on this date around 5:45 and saw someone walking up the road with a stick in his hand, or a blue station wagon, please let me know. You can email me at cory_jakobsen@hotmail.com. Thanks.
    By Matt Novinger
    From: Erie, CO
    May 3, 2011
    Admins: Hypotenuse should be listed as a TR as well as trad in the L to R listing above.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 4, 2011
    I don't understand why? Anything can be TR'd, but this is a trad lead.
    By David Reuille
    From: Denver, CO
    May 12, 2013
    Anyone know what the dihedral left of Dan-D-Lion is? I would guess 5.4-5.5 trad.
    By ArneHalbakken
    Aug 10, 2016
    Someone left some size 43 climbing shoes there. They are hanging in a tree near the base.
    By hwendlandt Wendlandt
    Oct 21, 2016
    I've climbed here a bunch when time is short or teaching others, but I've never paid close attention to the routes. Today, it occurs to me, there are three rather distinct lines on the left of Tuck. In my estimation, Surprising Slab is a fun little climb, and there is a perfectly good seam directly below the anchors, and another acceptable route to the right (before the dihedral), one of those latter being Hare Balls. Also, around the corner, past the new sport routes, there are three pretty distinct lines on that face. Hypotenuse is a fun puzzle, Spread Eagles is a crappy arete, and there is a great crack right down the middle, and for that matter, there are two totally different paths up Dan-D-Line.
    As one of the most popular places to climb in the Canyon, I'm confused why no one has added these other 'routes'? Even if they are squeezed, you can do them with almost no redundancy of holds.

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